nels0891 Posted June 29, 2010 Share Posted June 29, 2010 Trip: Mt. Baker - North Ridge Date: 6/26/2010 Trip Report: My partner and I have had this climb on our list for quite a while and finally we got a chance to do it. After the drive from Tacoma to Bellingham to pick up Kurt, then from there to the trailhead, we hit the trail at around 6:30. We then set up camp at the bottom of the glacier, enjoyed a nice sunset, and a little bit of sleep. The route was in good condition, ice was solid. Remember to go as far left as you can once you reach the first ice step, it is the only spot that isnt nearly as steep as the rest. The ridge beyond that was very straight forward. After reaching the summit at about 3:30, the decent was really slow because the snow on the coleman-deming route was super sloppy. It was a really fun route, I definitely recommend it. Gear Notes: I would bring like 6 ice screws, and we had one picket which worked fine. If your group is not comfortable simul-climbing then i would pack along another picket. Approach Notes: Cross the Coleman glacier early so that you can get up on the ridge without the danger of rockfall and avalanche. Also when you get to the ice lobe... go left!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J Surette Posted June 29, 2010 Share Posted June 29, 2010 Thanks for the trip report. We are heading up this weekend and I just had a couple of questions. What time did you leave camp to start the route? How steep was the ice that you climbed to the left? How many pitches of ice and what length rope did you take? Thanks in advance for the beta. Glad you had a good time and congrats. Any photos? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkJ Posted June 29, 2010 Share Posted June 29, 2010 also headed up this weekend- when you say the bottom of the glacier, do you mean the hogsback camp? or down at the toe, like at murkwood or whatever it's called? I'm just not sure where the best place to cross over is. Did you take the shortcut up the ridge or head up the ridge proper. Thanks for the update, looking forward to this, but not the descent... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Khartoum Wood Posted June 30, 2010 Share Posted June 30, 2010 60M Rope 3 pitches climbing out on the side of the ridge its 90 and on the ridge its around 50dig we where all over it.i love this route and plan to return soon. I'M open to climb weekends if anyone needs a partner out there. (360)920-5806 Khartoum Wood Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nels0891 Posted June 30, 2010 Author Share Posted June 30, 2010 MarkJ- We camped at the hogsback. its pretty straight forward to cross the glacier from there. We took the shortcut up the ridge, however i would make sure to do that only if the conditions are really solid and cold... there was plenty of evidence of avalanches and some rockfall. As we were heading up there, a fist sized rock also zipped by us on the way up. The decent also really shouldnt be all that bad if you get up to the top before too late in the afternoon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkJ Posted June 30, 2010 Share Posted June 30, 2010 weather doesn't look so hot. might postpone. Thanks for the update guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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