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iain

[TR] North Sister - Early Morning Couloir and othe

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Trip: North Sister - Early Morning Couloir and others

 

Date: 6/26/2010

 

Trip Report:

With spring finally here I hiked in to North Sister to do some skiing. I hadn't been climbing on the east side of North Sister for years so it was time again. It brought back a lot of old memories of me getting acquainted with climbing.

 

The impressive size 4 avalanche from awhile ago is still very much there.

 

4740851958_b4efc842a3_b.jpg

 

The first objective was Early Morning Couloir, the central gully.

 

Looking down on the destruction from the avalanche from the start of Early Morning Couloir. The amount of material moved in this one is remarkable. Some of the best camp spots are buried under a mini Khumbu icefall.

 

4740852074_bc6c373be3_b.jpg

 

Conditions in the couloir are decent, though there is significant runnels at this point. There is always rockfall in here no matter what. As is often the case on some of the Oregon Cascades, you just kind of roll the dice that you won't get hit by any of it and stay out of the way of obvious paths.

 

The view down from Glisan Pinnacle:

 

4740217181_3a8813c6e1_b.jpg

 

The snowpack is basically an isothermal snowcone right now, so getting on steeper stuff like this was a little interesting. A few turns would yield a significant sluff that would start pushing you around if you didn't keep it under control. Overall, the skiing was surprisingly good though.

 

The condition of the runnels at the exit of the couloir. You can see my boot and ski tracks to the left of the runnels, which was good snow:

 

4740217299_12212a3a41_b.jpg

 

More of the khumbu icefall:

 

4740233141_fbcb7c0ee9_b.jpg

 

I ran into Billy and friend over on the Villard Glacier so we went up and skied down some great snow near the Linn Glacier:

 

4740852416_6c1bc84f09_b.jpg

 

Shades of the SW Chutes on Adams...

 

4740852554_2f05f27118_b.jpg

 

 

It was great to be back on one of the mountains that has taught me a lot of the hard lessons of mountaineering over the years! Here's to Oregon in the springtime.

 

4740852646_aa2724ac8f_b.jpg

 

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Amazing, looks like so much fun. Those debris pile photos are pretty classic, lets hold on to those. I traversed those lower moraines before, usually mostly flat lava fields with cool bivy spots.

 

JL

 

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Thanks for the beautiful photos!

Looks like some nice skiable snow on the east side of North which was clearly not the case on the icy west side today.

 

At about 3 p.m. a cornice avy on the NE aspect of Middle took down a half of the mountain. That thing was going for 10 min. Unbelievable sight! I'll see if the pics we took are any good.

 

 

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Did any of it collapse down the east face, the gully nearest the se ridge? Is the bergschrund on the diller glacier still bridged substantially? Thanks.

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We could not really see how much of the entire east face was affected. We had just descended from North to our camp between the SE rib on North and Prouty Point when we heard an explosion similar to quake and saw the avy shooting down one of the NE headwalls. I'll post the pics if I happen to get them from my partner.

 

As of 06-21, the shrund on the Diller gl. was pretty much passable but it is hard to predict how much worse it got now.

 

Here is the shot taken from the T-line:

4743614098_8b8750a0a5_b.jpg

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