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summitchaserCJB

best of cc.com [TR] Index, Inner Wall - The Route of All Evil- 5.9. PG 6/21/2010

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Trip: Index, Inner Wall - The Route of All Evil- 5.9. PG

 

Date: 6/21/2010

 

Trip Report:

I cleaned and put up a route at Index over the last couple weeks. Most likely a FFA and FA but let me know if you know otherwise. Checked all available sources already. It's left of the 5.10d View from the Bridge. Overview. See far left.

Here are the pictures- Photos

Thanks Todd for the belay.

 

Gear Notes:

Two number ones, two number twos, and a yellow alien.

 

Approach Notes:

To the left of Toxic Shock at the Inner Wall.

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It was climbed a long time ago and continues to be climbed periodically. Thanks for the scrubbing.

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Not in any guides. If it feels as difficult as Toxic then it's probably 5.9

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Ya. In places it seemed just slightly harder. Hard to believe it's been climbed with the amount of moss on there. But if you say so I believe you. You don't have the FA info do you?

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Well good for you for trying. Obviously you're going to take a beating for claiming it as a FA, but there are unwritten rules here. Maybe someone should publish a book entitled "Nancies Rule Book for Claiming a New Route" that spells it out. Live and learn.

 

I'm wondering if there is crack at Index, contrived or otherwise, that someone hasn't already had a hand stuffed in it. I'm sure there are many repeats awaiting, buried under moss.

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there is still something cool about getting on a route that hasn't seen a climber in 10ish years. There are some classic lines waiting for a scrubbin. Look at Free Range Chook -

 

106430515_medium_eebda6.jpg

 

that shit is classic. Nobody cared because it needed a few hours of cleaning.

 

 

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Live and learn.

 

Slowly learning it would seem. Also note that most boulder problems (this is a boulder problem from what the pictures show) don't distinguish between FA and FFA.

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Dude, you totally nailed the FFA on such an appropriately and aptly named climb! Boy, that sure does look like the route of ALL evil! Wicked awesome! Did you find any cams at the base?

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you guys need to get a clue. this route is clearly a major addition to index and likely to move it from a backwater climbing area to the forefront of the world climbing scene. wait until they run that photo in alpinist! you'll see.

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This is soooooo funny to read.

 

btw... I know another route called 'route of all evil' and it was a painful 5.13 finger crack in a roof. When you name a route it should be something that applies to the route. Not something to just sound bad ass.

 

Congrats on making a project of cleaning and climbing a route.... fun times!

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Thank you for doing some cleaning work. I always admire the folks out there doing there fair share of cleaning and route developement. Someday I hope to try and clean something up myself.

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Even better; shouldn't this be in the "Rock Climbing" (i.e. craging) forum...?

 

No. This belongs in the Ultra RAD pre-climbed FRFA forum. Looks like it's been picked up by the wires:

 

alpinist5.jpg

 

 

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Maybe FAFM (first ascent for me).

 

Regardless, kudos for having a vision, cleaning, and sending. You're just getting flack because of your other obnoxious posts. Don't let the naysayers deter you from future projects.

 

And btw, I get to decide what is RAD and what is not. Period.

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there is still something cool about getting on a route that hasn't seen a climber in 10ish years. There are some classic lines waiting for a scrubbin. Look at Free Range Chook -

 

106430515_medium_eebda6.jpg

 

that shit is classic. Nobody cared because it needed a few hours of cleaning.

 

 

I had my eye on cleaning that myself! I'll work with you on that later this summer if you are interested.

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