sklag Posted June 16, 2010 Share Posted June 16, 2010 So, in light of the new dmm video showing the raping and pillaging of slings with factor 1 and 2 impact forces, what would the recommended way be to: 1) extend your rappel device, and 2) still use that same sling to go direct into the anchors. I have a set up I use that involves a knotted sling. Just wondering what you all use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountainmandoug Posted June 16, 2010 Share Posted June 16, 2010 I have a set up that I use for this purpose, made from a knotted nylon sling. I generally keep slack out of it, and I will be more diligent to do so in the future. I think when attaching yourself to an anchor with slings it's probably best to just lean against them the whole time if you can. I am contemplating the merits of perhaps making a new personal anchor out of some dynamic rope for these purposes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
counterfeitfake Posted June 16, 2010 Share Posted June 16, 2010 So, in light of the new dmm video showing the raping and pillaging of slings with factor 1 and 2 impact forces, what would the recommended way be to: 1) extend your rappel device, and 2) still use that same sling to go direct into the anchors. I have a set up I use that involves a knotted sling. Just wondering what you all use. I don't see the need to extend your rappel device, and don't really get what you're asking. But I think you're taking the wrong message away from that video, the message is just that you should not fall directly onto a sling. I often use a Metolius PAS and make an effort to keep it tight as long as I'm anchored in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
genepires Posted June 20, 2010 Share Posted June 20, 2010 the method favored by petzl and many euros uses one double runner. Girth hitch double runner to harness. Tie overhand knot in middle of sling giving you two equal loops. Clip belay device into loop closer to harness and use other loop to clip to anchor. When rapping, clip locker that was the connection to anchor to rope that gets pulled after rappel is over. (as a reminder for which rope to pull) don't know if this is the answer to your question. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
needtoclimb Posted June 20, 2010 Share Posted June 20, 2010 what is this video you refer to? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lodestone Posted June 20, 2010 Share Posted June 20, 2010 I am contemplating the merits of perhaps making a new personal anchor out of some dynamic rope for these purposes. That's what I've been using. 7mm dynamic cord is available by the foot here: http://www.canyonsandcrags.com/servlet/the-330/Accessory-Cord%2C-7mm-New/Detail I really like this setup because I can make the lanyard to exactly the length I like. The ultra small carabiners (CAMP Nano 23 or Metolius FS Mini) are really nice to use as they can be clipped into chain links other than the end link. Nice for gaining height, crowded stations, or dropping over a ledge. I used a barrel knot at the carabiner end and an overhand knot at the harness end. Chad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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