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I need rope advice!


jdiede

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Hey there guys. I am looking at two different ropes and could use some advice. I am looking at the Mammut 10.2 super safe and the Bluewater 9.7 Lightning Pro. I have been climbing for two years now. I am comfortably climbing at the 5.10 level with the occasional 5.11. I dont want a super thick boy but also want some durability. I was also wondering if the 1mm shealth slippage on the Bluewater is a deal breaker or nothing to worry about. I sport climb, top rope and am picking up trad fairly quickly. Let me know what you think thank you.

 

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You don't want to know what I think.

 

Really.

 

Good luck.

this is true... BC gets great deals on ropes that go coreshot at a high rate :laf: but let me give my $0.02.

 

the type of rope you should buy depends on the type of climbing you are going to be doing the MOST. if you plan on doing a lot of cragging where you will be doing mostly the "lead up and lower down" then a thicker diameter rope(i.e. 10.2 - 10.5) will be more durable for the abuse of the filthy crags.

if you plan on doing a lot of alpine then a thinner diameter rope(9.2 - 9.7) will be a lot lighter than the burly 10's. another thing to think about with respect to the thinner cords is if you think you won't be falling as much then they can be good for cragging. i wouldn't use a thinner diameter rope if i knew i was going to be falling on it a bunch, but they are lighter for alpine use.

i'd say that the rope you want is a 10.2 and probably at least a dry sheath. shop around and get lots of opinions though. don't just take my word for it!

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You can use a grigri with the 10.2 but not with the 9.7. Nothing under a 10 m when using a grigri. I always favor a burlier rope, and like Kenny said the dry treatment is the way to go.

 

The grigri can be used with a 9.7. Read the manual that comes with it. It says something to the effect of 10-11mm optimal, 9.7mm acceptable.

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I know of 2 people dropped with 9.7-9.8 ropes with a grigri. They said the ropes were new so extra slick but still something to be aware of.

 

I'm no huge grigri advocate, but if used with proper form they should arrest a fall whether or not the autolock engages.

 

Edited by frankstoneline
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