flashclimber Posted June 9, 2010 Share Posted June 9, 2010 Doug just put out a new video. Its Kevin R. climbing Cunning Stunt 10d. Pretty nice video in HD. Enjoy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keenwesh Posted June 11, 2010 Share Posted June 11, 2010 tell him to watch for the rope getting behind his heels! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sherri Posted June 11, 2010 Share Posted June 11, 2010 tell him to watch for the rope getting behind his heels! I was thinking the same thing. Nice vid! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
needtoclimb Posted June 11, 2010 Share Posted June 11, 2010 I was focusing on not peeling and dying. Heels schmeels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kimmo Posted June 11, 2010 Share Posted June 11, 2010 damn, even more bolts have been added to the climb. gotta love 'em right next to cracks. time to pay a visit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
summitchaserCJB Posted June 11, 2010 Share Posted June 11, 2010 ahhh nooooo!!! No bolts!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raindawg Posted June 11, 2010 Share Posted June 11, 2010 damn, even more bolts have been added to the climb. gotta love 'em right next to cracks. time to pay a visit. What he said. In the wide world of bolt-lameness, bolting next to cracks is perhaps the lamest of the lame. It looks like you had a lot of fun making that movie, though. MOMENTUM! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NateF Posted June 11, 2010 Share Posted June 11, 2010 tell him to watch for the rope getting behind his heels! I was focusing on not peeling and dying. Heels schmeels. I don't wish to detract from the excellent video, or potential ensuing (and repeated) bolt war, but wish to make the following PSA: dear climbing brethren: just put the rope outside your leg whenever possible unless your pro is fall line and your legs straddle it for a clean fall. make light of it but you set yourself up unnecessarily to get flipped by the rope and smash noggin upon rock. too many people let their friends do this IMHO. it's a pet peeve to me how many people repeatedly run the senseless and avoidable risk of turning a short and safe fall into a trip to the hospital or worse. it drives me nuts how often I have to remind friends who have been climbing for a decade or more of this, but I won't stop nagging and they do occasionally thank me for caring about them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
needtoclimb Posted June 12, 2010 Share Posted June 12, 2010 damn, even more bolts have been added to the climb. gotta love 'em right next to cracks. time to pay a visit. ahhh nooooo!!! No bolts!!!!! damn, even more bolts have been added to the climb. gotta love 'em right next to cracks. time to pay a visit. What he said. In the wide world of bolt-lameness, bolting next to cracks is perhaps the lamest of the lame. It looks like you had a lot of fun making that movie, though. MOMENTUM! Not sure if you have climbed this route, but I wouldn't trust cams in the crack, which more of a thin flake. A good full could bust the flake, but each to their own. Any of you want to go climb it tomorrow? I would love to see how it is led only with gear. Yes, I am calling you out. I can leave from lynnwood around 11:00 am tomorrow. Give me a call tonight, anytime, since I work until 0400. (I am driving out to index anyway tomorrow to borrow some gear from a buddy, so throwing someone else in my car isn't a big deal. I drive, you lead. Not sure if I can lead that route anymore, but would love to get a TR on it.) Kevin 425-802-3100 I don't mean to sound so harsh. Seriously, if you guys want to climb tomorrow, call me. My regular partners are working. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raindawg Posted June 12, 2010 Share Posted June 12, 2010 Not sure if you have climbed this route, but I wouldn't trust cams in the crack, which more of a thin flake. A good full could bust the flake, but each to their own. Any of you want to go climb it tomorrow? I would love to see how it is led only with gear. Yes, I am calling you out. I can leave from lynnwood around 11:00 am tomorrow. Give me a call tonight, anytime, since I work until 0400. (I am driving out to index anyway tomorrow to borrow some gear from a buddy, so throwing someone else in my car isn't a big deal. I drive, you lead. Not sure if I can lead that route anymore, but would love to get a TR on it.) Kevin 425-802-3100 I don't mean to sound so harsh. Seriously, if you guys want to climb tomorrow, call me. My regular partners are working. OOhh! Callin' us all out to climb a lamely conceived sport-climb at Index! OOhhh! Well if it's top-ropable, then it's 10 times lamer to bolt a crack, and you're only endorsing that crap if you climb those clips! Just sayin'! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sol Posted June 12, 2010 Share Posted June 12, 2010 step up dawg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el jefe Posted June 12, 2010 Share Posted June 12, 2010 yes, raindawg, time to walk the walk, not just talk, talk, talk... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Posted June 12, 2010 Share Posted June 12, 2010 +1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
needtoclimb Posted June 12, 2010 Share Posted June 12, 2010 0400 and no one called. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted June 12, 2010 Share Posted June 12, 2010 methinks dawg or kimmo would have no problem dispensing that route on gear or bolts... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rafe1234 Posted June 12, 2010 Share Posted June 12, 2010 It's not like it's a bolted splitter, or as if bolting cracks is the norm since Stunt got bolted. It climbs nicely, and doesn't detract from the sense of adventure at Index. The reason this route got bolts seems obvious, and the reason most others don't is pretty obvious too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc_leclerc Posted June 12, 2010 Share Posted June 12, 2010 Im going to bolt City park P1, I don' think its fair that one should need to have such an extensive rack of small gear just to climb it. I t should be acesible to EVERYBODY :)!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kimmo Posted June 12, 2010 Share Posted June 12, 2010 Not sure if you have climbed this route, but I wouldn't trust cams in the crack, which more of a thin flake. A good full could bust the flake, but each to their own. Any of you want to go climb it tomorrow? I would love to see how it is led only with gear. Yes, I am calling you out. cunning stunt is a really fun climb that protects well with gear. and yes, i've lead it without bolts on multiple occasions. the "flake" you mention takes solid gear low and left, creating very little torsion at that point. the reason i get a little irked about its bolt status is because it was originally lead with very little fixed gear (one bolt and one pin?), but somehow bolts kept appearing (and reappearing), thanks to the same fellow who bolted angora grotto, a hand-crack, and other gear protectable climbs at index. this same fellow went so far as to bolt on a plastic hold on a route in the cave at nason ridge, a route that i subsequently climbed without its use. and yes, i think raindawg could lead cunnning stunt with gear too, since he's been training and is getting close to 5.13. he has momentum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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