powderhound Posted June 4, 2010 Share Posted June 4, 2010 Looking for some recomendations for routes that wont be so crowded. Maybe a little run out, but still fun. Any other beta wouold be appreciated. Do I need to bring two ropes? Thanks for lurking and a double thanks if you reply. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jshamster Posted June 4, 2010 Share Posted June 4, 2010 you'll pretty much never find a line up for Fantasia or Scimitar. Both classic run out lines on the east wall. Psychedelic Tree is another good one, but rumors of loose rock keep folks off. it's really not that bad, and the roofs at the top are super fun. I'd guess around 80% of the routes down there are pretty uncrowded. East wall & the two classics on main wall (corrugation & traveler) get all of the traffic. Most times i've been down there, we climbed at the leap on weekdays & went to phantom spires or sugarloaf for the weekend. tons more awesome sierra granite with no crowds at all. if yer climbin' to the top, which a lot of routes do, then two ropes are not necessary. walk off is easy. some of the single pitch climbs require at least a 70, and occasionally two ropes. Labour of love comes to mind, right next to the line. phantom spires still has free camping, as do some of the other FS roads around there. unfortunately the days of camping in the campground for free are gone. one of my absolute favorites places to climb. cheers jimbo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moof Posted June 4, 2010 Share Posted June 4, 2010 East Crack is decent and sees little traffic, though it shares the last pitch with a couple of the most popular... Deception Direct while listed at 5.9R, only has a move or two of 5.9, and with a little gardening you can get some slammer brass placements so it isn't even that R. The newer lines on Hogsback like Better with Bacon see almost no traffic. Check out Honkey Toast for excellent 5.10+ slabbery. Perhaps you could get the second ascent of the second pitch? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
powderhound Posted June 4, 2010 Author Share Posted June 4, 2010 do you have a topo for that area? I am assuming that you have the first? I like to be second...just not if a girl is involved. HA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moof Posted June 6, 2010 Share Posted June 6, 2010 Sorry, no topo. I don't have the FA, a good friend of mine does. I got to TR the first ~5 bolts worth before it was done. The FA is by Tad, aka the Man of Steele. If you know Petch out there (local, used to be the best bartender at the lodge, still guides) he could hook you up with beta. He also has beta on other ham related routes. http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=206617 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sklag Posted June 16, 2010 Share Posted June 16, 2010 I'm gonna have to 2nd the tip on the hogsback... it's a nice run out, but not too run out, slab fest. It's awesome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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