kinnikinnick Posted May 28, 2010 Share Posted May 28, 2010 I hate to fish for beta but my motivation is entirely economical: is a #5 Camalot needed for the alpinist of average ability on the bear hug pitch of the Southwest Rib of South Early Winters? I've heard mixed reports... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fenderfour Posted May 28, 2010 Share Posted May 28, 2010 no. Â If you hump the middle of the cracks, it's super secure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crillz Posted May 28, 2010 Share Posted May 28, 2010 Not worth the extra weight. Â Single rack through #4 BD should be good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lazyalpinist Posted May 28, 2010 Share Posted May 28, 2010 I'm average. Â The climbing on the bear hugs was not difficult and was short (10'?) But the cracks don't really take gear smaller than a #5. (There is a spot in the back of the left crack where you can get a #4 in but that is due to a loose flake making up the difference in size.) When entering the bear hugs, you'll have a small cam at your feet IIRC. So depends on how comfortable you are with the climbing. Â PS, we used the #5 on the flake pitch as well. (Although not needed there.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ColinB Posted May 28, 2010 Share Posted May 28, 2010 I second fenderfour on that one. Humphumphump. Plus when I climbed it, my partner found someone else's older #4 lying at the bottom of the bearhug pitch which was kickass considering our rack only went to #3... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
powdrx Posted May 28, 2010 Share Posted May 28, 2010 I am quite average. I brought and used the #5 on the White Flake Pitch and then used it again on the Bear-Hug pitch. A #4 works fine on both pitches, but I liked the #5 on the Flake. Approach is not far, so if you have it, bring it and if nothing else, training weight!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
summitchaserCJB Posted May 28, 2010 Share Posted May 28, 2010 Sounds like it's worth bringing to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnson Posted May 29, 2010 Share Posted May 29, 2010 We felt that the grade was soft for the entire climb. Biggest piece we brought was a 4 and although its not the ideal piece on the Bear Hug section, it works... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goatboy Posted May 30, 2010 Share Posted May 30, 2010 I wouldn't even dream of bringing it for about 1-2 moves that are really secure and straightforward. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountainsloth Posted June 1, 2010 Share Posted June 1, 2010 you'll be fine. definitely soft for the grade. fun route. forget the #5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomtom Posted June 1, 2010 Share Posted June 1, 2010 Â Old #5 or new #5? Worthless advice without noting the difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crimper Posted June 1, 2010 Share Posted June 1, 2010 i led this one, and as i only touch a granite once maybe twice a year (living in oregon with a couple toddlers) i usually get humbled when i leave the basalt. so i brought a new 4 and old 5 with me. i placed them both and it made the moves as safe as can be. also, the climbing was much easier than i expected, and i think i was even smiling with relief as i exited the wideness. but a fall without that 5 in up higher would smack you right on an unavoidable ledge, no doubt about it, so if you worry about that kind of thing (i do) i'd say bring the gear. but if smacking a ledge concerns you less than the extra pound or whatever, leave the gear at home. have fun! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaskadskyjKozak Posted June 1, 2010 Share Posted June 1, 2010 i led this one, and as i only touch a granite once maybe twice a year (living in oregon with a couple toddlers) i usually get humbled when i leave the basalt. so i brought a new 4 and old 5 with me. i placed them both and it made the moves as safe as can be. also, the climbing was much easier than i expected, and i think i was even smiling with relief as i exited the wideness. but a fall without that 5 in up higher would smack you right on an unavoidable ledge, no doubt about it, so if you worry about that kind of thing (i do) i'd say bring the gear. but if smacking a ledge concerns you less than the extra pound or whatever, leave the gear at home. have fun! Â I take it from the discussion that a new C4 #5 would not work? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lazyalpinist Posted June 1, 2010 Share Posted June 1, 2010 I take it from the discussion that a new C4 #5 would not work? Â We used a new #5. Judging from the OP, he is hoping not to buy a #5, which I'd assume if he was buying one would be new, not old #5. New #4 was a little shaky in the bear hugs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaskadskyjKozak Posted June 1, 2010 Share Posted June 1, 2010 I take it from the discussion that a new C4 #5 would not work? Â We used a new #5. Judging from the OP, he is hoping not to buy a #5, which I'd assume if he was buying one would be new, not old #5. New #4 was a little shaky in the bear hugs. Â cool, thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crillz Posted June 1, 2010 Share Posted June 1, 2010 Just lieback that shiznit. There's no bear hugging. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jordansahls Posted June 1, 2010 Share Posted June 1, 2010 No need for the #5. The bear hug pitch is soft and unexposed with amazing foot and hand holds. However, if you don't mind hauling the extra gear and it makes you feel more comfortable then go for it. Â This view from the belay should give you an idea about the length and nature of the pitch: Â Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kinnikinnick Posted June 1, 2010 Author Share Posted June 1, 2010 looks cruiser! thanks all for the beta. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crimper Posted June 1, 2010 Share Posted June 1, 2010 cruiser is right. i had more trouble a bit lower when trying to commit to the 5.6plus friction crux until i realized i could traverse right to an easier crack and bypass those moves (didn't leave any gear in it so my partner could just head straight up through the friction crux). but if you are used to granite i'm sure it's not a big deal. Â and for what it's worth, the west face of the spire to the left (north? south? whatever is to the left) was a cleaner, steeper, prouder line that any 5-9 leader can get through with a little french freeing. but maybe you know that already.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaskadskyjKozak Posted June 1, 2010 Share Posted June 1, 2010 Â God, that looks beautiful! Â Damn this rain! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fenderfour Posted June 1, 2010 Share Posted June 1, 2010 God, that looks beautiful! Â That's not beautiful. It's some guy's taint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoff Posted August 1, 2010 Share Posted August 1, 2010 How about 1 new #6 camalot, since I do not have a #4 or #5? Don't really want to free solo the wide stuff. Â Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
genepires Posted August 2, 2010 Share Posted August 2, 2010 The new #6 is about the same as a old #5? If so, the #6 will work for that pitch. You may need to climb a move or two into it before you can get it in though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kinnikinnick Posted August 6, 2010 Author Share Posted August 6, 2010 climbed this route last week and a rack of camalots from .3-4 worked well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
summitchaserCJB Posted August 16, 2010 Share Posted August 16, 2010 RAD- Can I have your autograph? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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