rocketparrotlet Posted May 26, 2010 Share Posted May 26, 2010 I have topped out on the 3rd pitch of Great Northern Slab quite a few times and always wondered what is above it. Has anybody been up there? Anything notable? -Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sol Posted May 26, 2010 Share Posted May 26, 2010 gorilla my dreams, a super fun 10a bolted flake timberjack fun 5.9 2 minute hike from the topout of GNS, well worth it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
counterfeitfake Posted May 26, 2010 Share Posted May 26, 2010 (edited) Hike up from the top of Gorilla, and climb Plum Pudding! Very fun 5.9 lieback corner. Maybe like Sr. Citizens but steeper. Ah shit, Cummins says Plum Pudding is 10a. http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/index/middle.gif vs http://mountainproject.com/v/washington/index_town_walls/mid_wall/106386419 Can 5.10a feel like 5.9?? Don't ask me, I've never even climbed at Index. Edited May 26, 2010 by counterfeitfake Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fenderfour Posted May 26, 2010 Share Posted May 26, 2010 Timberjack is like a 5.8/5.10b. Bring big cams. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryanb Posted May 26, 2010 Share Posted May 26, 2010 Most Definitely! Scramble up that gully some time! There are some fun well traveled pitches (timberjack, and gorrilla my dreams) on winki dinky cliffs directly up from the gully or you can walk right (to the top of breakfast of champions) to access the dihedrals. Actually, if you do the great northern slab, scramble up the gully and walk right, do defoliator (5.7...possibly old bolts at the belay) then continue up the (undocumented?) crack system above the left end of the defoliator belay ledge through an interesting chimney/tunnel through and then figure out how to top out the wall (we traversed right for a pitch and then did a pitch ending ant an old fixed rope leading into the trees.) you end up at the base of the mid wall and can do robin's ramp, effectively linking a good portion of the <5.7 pitches at index into a fun multi pitch feeling thing...be very aware of loose rock...there are people below you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
summitchaserCJB Posted May 26, 2010 Share Posted May 26, 2010 Good climbs. I've done em both. I agree with the 5.8/5.10b rating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peakpimp Posted May 27, 2010 Share Posted May 27, 2010 +1 for Plum Pudding its a good'n! Also I thought timberjack was more like a 5.8/.10b myself haha! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocketparrotlet Posted May 27, 2010 Author Share Posted May 27, 2010 Are Gorilla My Dreams or Timberjack runout? They sound hard...but I'll go up there for sure! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fenderfour Posted May 27, 2010 Share Posted May 27, 2010 Both have a spicy start. Timberjack has pro, gorilla has a little less. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crillz Posted May 27, 2010 Share Posted May 27, 2010 What's climber's left of Timberjack? (Timberjack is that one with the offwidth at the top right?) It was pretty dirty, but if it got cleaned would be a pretty good route. I remember some thin moves to a hard lieback, and then into a squeeze chimney. My shirt got ripped up from that chimney. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
summitchaserCJB Posted May 27, 2010 Share Posted May 27, 2010 Yes Crillz. I don't know about what is left of it. It's possible to do TJ without pro over 4 inches. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reid Posted May 27, 2010 Share Posted May 27, 2010 Does anyone else have a problem with the last 3 (?) bolts and anchor bolts on gorilla my dreams or am I just a pussy? Or are most people placing gear at that point? Made one attempt at it and backed off cause I saw rusty beer tabs above and I had no gear. Rapped it later and was pretty sketched at the anchor setup (not the one we rapped off of. Rapped off a tree, but we rapped past the bolts) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fenderfour Posted May 27, 2010 Share Posted May 27, 2010 There has been some discussion about fixing those hangers. Haven't gotten to it yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keelanmj Posted May 27, 2010 Share Posted May 27, 2010 Ha Reid, was just about to ask that as well. So has anyone weighted any of gorilla's bolts recently? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryanb Posted May 27, 2010 Share Posted May 27, 2010 If someone goes up there with a drill the two bolts on Terminator (5.10b fun knob route just above the BOC anchor) and maybe the anchor could use an update as well... quarter inch button heads on what could otherwise be a fun moderate pitch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
summitchaserCJB Posted May 27, 2010 Share Posted May 27, 2010 hmmm, thanks for the beta. Want to try that route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NateF Posted May 27, 2010 Share Posted May 27, 2010 Timberjack protects well and there's a bolt to get you through the wide part towards the top. I recall a burly move to top out above the bolt but I remember the bolt being good. Good fun. Yeah the anchor's funky up there, old sling disappearing up into the woods to back up the bolts or something. I've followed Gorilla a few times, and offer the following suggestions despite all the bolts (unless you're confident at the grade & with sustained burly laybacks): bring some gear to protect yourself before the 1st bolt, the clip can be awkward. Also a large cam (or two) can be walked up between bolts to provide more of a G rated experience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fenderfour Posted May 27, 2010 Share Posted May 27, 2010 If someone goes up there with a drill the two bolts on Terminator (5.10b fun knob route just above the BOC anchor) and maybe the anchor could use an update as well... quarter inch button heads on what could otherwise be a fun moderate pitch. Drilling is the easy part. Removing the old bolts is the tough part. Even old button heads can be tenacious. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocketparrotlet Posted May 30, 2010 Author Share Posted May 30, 2010 The largest piece I have is a #3 Camalot. I'm not solid at 5.9 yet, but I'd like to be. I haven't done any 5.9 leads yet, but I plan on it soon. Say I whip from the worst possible scenario on Timberjack/Gorilla my Dreams. Would the bolts on either one hold? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
summitchaserCJB Posted May 30, 2010 Share Posted May 30, 2010 If you go to Index tomorrow you should do Roger's Corner. It stays dry in the rain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
summitchaserCJB Posted May 30, 2010 Share Posted May 30, 2010 And so long as you put in gear timberjack is fine. I'd think twice about it though Mark. It's turned back more than 1 5.8/9 leader. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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