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      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   12/08/21

      Thanks for visiting Cascadeclimbers.com.   Yep, we are still going!    Just put a new coat of paint on the site. Still the same old community of climbers, skiers, and people who love to get outdoors. Hope you had a great 2021, and wish you the best for 2022 and beyond.  Thanks again for stopping by.
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Sherri

Olympics guidebook now online

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As the previous post indicated the new site is up and running, though it is still a bit under construction. Check it out: Climbers Guide Olympics.

 

We've still got a lot of content yet to add to the website, including a number of peak pages in the Constance section and a few in the Olympus section. But we've put a lot of effort into the site thus far and there is a lot of content on there already. You we see a number of places that indicate 'Photo Needed". In some cases we do have photos already I havent had the chance yet to post. In other cases we just don't have a picture yet.

 

The intent was to create a complementing resource to the printed guidebook. This will serve as an encyclopedia of sorts of the Olympics. We don't plan on adding a forum like what we have here on cc.com. However, we will be adding in the near future some areas on the site for people to make suggestions on changes to route descriptions, ratings, and the like. We also welcome any comments or photo submissions you have, which can be sent to climbersguideolympics@gmail.com.

 

Steph Abegg was instrumental in getting this site off the ground, and some of her artistic talent is evident there. So a lot of credit and gratitude from us at OMR goes her way.

 

So if you get a chance have a look at the site and let us know what you think.

 

Thanks,

 

John Myers

Olympic Mountain Rescue

 

 

 

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Great supplement to the print copy! Still worth purchasing the book as there's a lot more info in it.

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I'm mildly curious as to why my routes on Contstance from the late 70's aren't in it. Was it something I said?

 

I do realize this is rather un-Olympic but still...

UlfsCorner.jpg

Edited by Reilly

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Are you talking about the print version or the online version of the guide?

 

This quote is from the Olympic Mountain Rescue website.

 

Note: corrections and additional information on routes can be sent either to: OMR, P. O. Box 4244, Bremerton, WA 98312 or to info@olympicmountainrescue.org

 

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They are in the print version (unless they missed something). I think the online version is not intended to be exhaustive or to replace the print version, they still want to sell the print version. The online version is supposed to be a place to add additional pictures, corrections, route updates, etc.

 

I doubt anyone excluded your routes for any other reason then there isn't much more information available than is already in the book and those routes don't get done often (ever? second ascent?). I'm sure they would add them in if you wanted to contribute more info or pictures or get someone to head up there and do a trip report!

 

I've always been interested in those routes myself, but haven't had a partner too excited about 5.9+ climbing in the generally poor rock with crappy pro (I know there are exceptions of course).

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Gotta say I like the Elwha crag. what did that steep part (middle) of the wall go at? did'nt it get bolted? Would love to see more pictures of that place. Hard to get any to pop up on the internet.

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I thought that was 12+ but maybe I'm thinking of something else, I certainly have no hope of venturing up the steep bit there. Does anyone know what the access there is like now with the dam being removed? Did a hike get put in from the other side?

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Here are some pics:

http://jjohnson.photoshelter.com/gallery/Rock-Climbing/G00009vlj.SfvcuM/

 

There are a group of guys maintaining that wall and can be reached via a Facebook group Solid Rock Climbers: http://www.facebook.com/group.php?gid=200725845214

 

A bit has changed since the book was published. Some of the bolts protecting routes were rotten and subsequently removed, making those routes a bit harder. A few new routes too.

 

Also, a few of us (mostly them, not so much me yet) are developing a new area near Tyler Peak.

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Being one of the original instigators at the Elwha and it's most frequent user by a long shot I have a little different perspective on the activities of this “Solid Rock” climbers group and the Elwha in general.

First off the Elwha is loaded with loose rock. However, when we first established the routes we did our best to remove that which was truly dangerous yet lesser stuff will always remain that is just the nature of the place. If you are afraid of potentially loose rock you probably need to find another area in which to climb.

 

It is totally unacceptable to take hammers and pry bars to long established and popular routes and remove holds because you are uncomfortable using them. This was recently done on the route Buzz away in the name of safety for beginning leaders now the first bolt is nearly impossible to clip and the second one nearly as bad. This is certainly not an improvement in my eyes especially in terms of safety.

 

The “new routes” consist of a one bolt variational start to the route Panasonic and a five bolt squeeze job in between The Breeze and It Goes with anchors placed mid route on The Breeze, which have subsequently been removed. Both of these had long ago been top roped from already existent gear and remain easily top roped today.

 

None of the original bolts have been removed on existing routes as stated above by johnsonjj22. Someone did install a poorly placed bolt next to the original drilled angle on Earth and Sky, however they were not able to remove the old pin so I’d probably trust it more than the new bolt. The anchors were replaced on Slapping Skeeters in such a way that you now run the risk of shredding your rope over the edge of a ledge by top roping and lowering off of them.

 

Dam removal is supposed to start in fall 2011 and thus far no restrictions on access to the crag. The cliff is currently very wet and will probably remain so till early April.

 

Edited by old 5.9

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Also, a few of us (mostly them, not so much me yet) are developing a new area near Tyler Peak.

 

Do you have any more info on this area. I would be interested to hear about what has been developed.

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I talked to Scott Underwood, who can be contacted via the above mentioned FB group and this is the beta he was able to give:

 

There are currently 5 bolted routes, with more probably on the way.

 

When you approach the main wall, from left to right these are the routes:

 

1. Unnamed proj. ~5.10 no FA

2. Scornacopia ~5.11a/b FA Scott Underwood

3. Myboyohurts proj. ~5.12+

4. Mossness Monster ~5.10a FA Caleb

5. Onderfall 5.10c FA Scott Underwood

 

How to get there... It'll be better if I post GPS coords

47°53'17.07"N

123° 7'56.38"W

 

The road heads up to the Camp Handy/Tubal Cain mine, but you take a left fork before heading down to the upper Dungeness campground.

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I take it your mean the right fork spur road that heads to the Baldy/Tyler trailhead, at least that's where your coordinates point to and would make more sense. There are several rock outcrops up there coming down from Tyler Peak. Are the routes close visible from the road? I've looked up there a few times while driving by and wondered how crappy it was.

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Yep, Exactly on the directions.

 

The rock is actually really solid, but you do have to walk up from the road over a talus drainage and through trees about 100yds.

 

For me, living so close to the Elwha wall, it's hard to drive out there, but for others who live in Sequim and further eastward, it's closer and more viable.

 

Obviously, living on the Olympic Peninsula, we don't get the great rock that exists in the cascades. This is more like the Elwha Wall only closer to Sequim and comprised of granite.

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Thanks for the info! I was up at the baldy/tyler trailhead this spring, but I had not noticed any of the development. I will have to go check it out some time.

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I've heard rumors from a reliable source that the County has at least thought about creating a spur trail from the Adventure Route trailhead just of 112 that will maintain access to the climbing and fishing opportunities, as well as viewing the recreated falls.

 

It would help if interested parties (ie climbers) would let the County Commissioners know that restoring access there would be appreciated.

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I emailed the commissioners and this is response so far:

 

"There has been some talk about several possible trail routes off of the ODT, to take advantage of both the views of the dam removal process and for more permanent North / South routes from the Straits to the Mountains. I’m not aware of any definite plans and, or money being put out there to get them done, yet. Maybe Rich James, our ODT Guru can help with your question."

-- Jim Jones, Jr.

 

I will update with any new info I get.

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Reilly,

 

There was no intent to leave out your Constance routes. We put in a huge amount of time last spring to get the site up and running, and for no particular reason the Constance section of the book was added towards the end of that initial push, and it frankly didn't get completed. The South Summit of Constance isn't even in there yet, neither route. At the moment your 23rd Party Congress route is listed under the Point Smith page: Point Smith

 

So I will apologize here if you've felt slighted at all. Again, there was no intent whatsoever. It was merely an issue of burnout on really the 3 of us that were grinding out the page creations. This winter we've been preparing for another push to get things more complete. We have a pile of new photos we've received from people and some new route information as well. So thank you for everyone who has contributed and offered comments and suggestions.

 

For the Constance section Reilly you have provided some wonderful pictures and route info. We are still interested in posting those, perhaps in a similar fashion to what we did on the Mt Clark Corkscrew route: Mt Clark - Corkscrew

 

For those interested in the crags on Tyler Peak, take a look at the photo on the Tyler Peak page. I took this from the Gold Creek trail on the opposite side of the Dungeness. A lot of rock over there.

 

As before, send any contributions or comments to ClimbersGuideOlympics@gmail.com

 

John

 

 

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