marc_leclerc Posted May 17, 2010 Share Posted May 17, 2010 Trip: Cheakamus Canyon to Fraser Valley - Cliping bolts & bouldering Date: 5/17/2010 Trip Report: Okay, there was some trad climbing too, but those were Tamara's leads, this was the first time in a very long time I did not plug any gear on a climbing trip. Last weekend I went to Chek with my friend Brock and we did some sport climbing around the Big Show area. We both tried 'Free Will' an amazing 13c, Brock only fell once and I had to hang a couple times after the crux. 'Free Will' is a total endurance route, linking a bunch of pumpy 5.12 into a few 5.13 fingerlock pulls, then a bunch of pumpy 11d jugs into a final 12d sequence before the chains. The route overhangs 45 degrees the whole way making for a very sick outing! Free Will, 5.13c Later on we went around the corner to the Circus wall to do a few more routes, I flashed both 'Face the Music' 12a, and 'Fleeing Heifer' 12c before heading home. The next day I climbed near my house in the Fraser Valley. I cleaned and put an anchor on a crazy highball problem I had spotted before and figured it out on TR. It goes at V5, and I can walk it on TR, but I backed off twice when going for the highball/solo. I have to go back with more pads to cover the horrible pit of deat at the bottom. The boulder problem! This weekend we headed to Squamish first, and Tamara led Cat Crack, 5.7, and Flying Circus, 10a and Scott took some great pictures! Nice work on Flying Circus Tamara Cat Crack, it looks so steep upside down! Flying Circus, 5.10a. Apparently this is so easy for Tamara that she took a no hands rest and tied her hair back half way up. Oh, and for the record, Tamara would like to clarify that she is not pulling the cam, she is giving it a tug to make sure its good. Like you guys are going to judge her lol! I worked on the new-ish 5.13 bolted route just to the right of Neat and Cool, but it was so painful at the first crux , underclinging a sharp crimp/flake I only tried a couple times. After this we headed straight to Chek again, and Tamara headed up a new 3 pitch 10a with my friend Ben while I worked some harder lines with Brock who just happened to be there again. I tried Free Will a couple times but was immediately too pumped from working the other route in Squamish. Brock worked 'Captain Amreica' a sweet 5.14b, where you climb the crux of Pulse 14a, reverse the crux of Division Bell 13d, then continue up Free Will 13c right thorugh the crux of that route to the chains! He is going to send soon. I quickly realized that I needed to do something bouldery that wouldnt require a lot of endurance so I hopped on 'The Down System' a short 5.14 with some particularily heinous boulder problems leading into big easier pulls with a couple rests. Brock had worked this route a year ago and had almost sent, falling from the 13a redpoint crux move 3 times. One move in the crux boulder problem at the bottom is so strenous that Brock dislocated a couple ribs and had to take a few months off climbing! Brock on the Down System Powerful crux moves! Me on The Down System Crux of The Downs System, 5.14a For the next while I worked the route, solving the crux moves, but not the upper section. It's so much fun to work something hard with your friends, comparing beta and so on. I walked back around the corner just in time to see Tamara do a big 30 meter free hanging rap from her 3 pitch route then we headed back to the tents. I still had a bit of energy so Ben and I went to 'The Boiler Room' a bouldery 12d near our camp. I sent 3rd try after having to figure out new beta in the crux. Ben will send it soon too! Great route! Tamara hides from mosquitos! Sending 'The Boiler Room' 12d. So fun! The next day Tamara was too tired to climb and just tanned in the sun. I warmed up on a couple 5.12s then worked on 'The Down System' more. Figuring out all the moves to the chains. I linked from the ground right through the crux then wussed out and grabbed a draw. I can't wait to come back to this route and try it again now that I know I can do all the moves and link the crux. Ben on Face The Music, 12a Ben on The Mutation, 5.11c We quickly stopped by Squamish on the way home to boulder. I just did easy lines and Tamara gave a good effort on 'Easy Chair' V4. But we were both dead and just drove home after an hour. Tamara on Easy Chair, V4 Such a fun couple weeks! Sport climbing is pretty fun! Gear Notes: gear, draws, rope, stuff.... Approach Notes: drive, walk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keenwesh Posted May 17, 2010 Share Posted May 17, 2010 why can't I see any pictures?!?!?! maybe the school compute I'm on just really sucks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
damage Posted May 17, 2010 Share Posted May 17, 2010 wracked with envy awesome pics, thanks for posting! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dustin B. Posted May 19, 2010 Share Posted May 19, 2010 the 2 shots of her leading are spectacular! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc_leclerc Posted May 19, 2010 Author Share Posted May 19, 2010 the 2 shots of her leading are spectacular! Her lead in general was spectacular! She is such a talented crack climber! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TamaraSlade Posted May 19, 2010 Share Posted May 19, 2010 the 2 shots of her leading are spectacular! Her lead in general was spectacular! She is such a talented crack climber! Awe Shucks.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sherri Posted May 19, 2010 Share Posted May 19, 2010 You kids are an inspiration! Love the pics and the mojo. Keep it coming! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocketparrotlet Posted May 20, 2010 Share Posted May 20, 2010 Awesome stuff! I wish I could have come with. -Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RolonRolon Posted May 26, 2010 Share Posted May 26, 2010 Great TR! Motivates me to get out more... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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