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danhelmstadter

[TR] Stuart - Ice Cliff Glacier & Stuart Glacier Couloir/nw face 5/12/2010

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Trip: Stuart - Ice Cliff Glacier & Stuart Glacier Couloir/nw face

 

Date: 5/12 -13/2010

 

Trip Report:

Aaron Scott and I skinned up to the high bivy and got some good sleep late Tuesday, a week old sprained ankle thankfully proved painless and not overly swollen for the approach. Thrusday 'morn we booted up the Ice Cliff route - (ropeing up on the glacier). Climbing conditions were generally shin deep with breakable crust, and some sections of powder and hardpack -- the NE aspects were going off - some would dump into the couloir as we climbed -- but would follow a growing runnel. We continued on to the summit from the col, in shin deep sluffy glop -- cutting quite a few lanches on our way down.

Ski Conditions in the Ice Cliff were variable, but mostly quite enjoyable, a scare from the bergshrund aside... We didn't need to rap or downclimb any sections -- a few pick placements with skis on were nessecary for the entrance, the broken glacial section low down was completely covered and really fun to ski. proto corn and mank back to the camp.

 

Aaron cllimbing in the upper portion

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Aaron busts a jump turn on firm snow

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Aaron had some work obligations the next day so he skiied out, and I made friends with a grayjay -- who became annoying and slightly dangerous after looseing his fear of humans -- experience gained by - his persistant scavenging.

There were a few loud crashing ice falls/avalanches during the dark hours, and quite a few large PR avys on my skin up to the Stuart Glacier. The Stuart Glacier Couloir route was shaded until late day -- because of it's incut nw faceing nature. Most other aspects were dumping hard. I made an anchor and belayed myself across the bergshrund, but the snow bridge proved solid. Climbing the couloir was a mixed bag, with plenty of powder, but also plenty of knar icy knobby crust. A runnel existed in the center of the couloir, the NW face held glorious powder for it's lower portion, then various crusts higher up. The exposure was intimidateing at times because of its 50dg - variable snow, and a fall would launch one off fatal cliffs. I topped out on the col at the top of the face -- which is the obvious high point for the ski route since nothing but rock and rime exists from there to the summit. The south side was a giant slurpy slide ready to go.

 

The skiing was meticoulous through the crusty section -- then glorious pow turns for the good snow poriton, I skiied the route without rappels or downclimbing, although a few side steps were called for through the icy runnel section. I've got some video footage that I might post here later.

 

I packed camp and headed out, going all the way to Bridge Creek CG since my truck had been makeing noises and I wanted to save it from that incline up to the TH.

 

Here are a bunch of crappyish pics from the descent.

 

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Great skiing wit you Aaron! if you got any cool pics feel free to post 'em.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by danhelmstadter

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Not fair...

 

Great effort you guys! June is looking good! Can't wait to bust out of my forced hiatus from skiing!

 

Thanks for the TR!

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Damn I wish I could have stayed for the sgc! Looks like an amazing ski line! Still can't find the cord for my camera so no pics but I have that video I will try and get it on here soon.

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Here's that video:

 

www.vimeo.com/11771053

 

it's prolly a lil long for most attention spans...but the schrund incident is around 9:20. Sorry bout the tunes as well, using my moms old computer and don't have any of my music on it. Not sure where the hiphop came from but it was better than nothin.

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Nice job. That looks liked quite a little ride. Seems the schrund is growing? Perhaps just a slow snow year? Thanks for the video.

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jebus croyist Aaron! i get shivers watching that bergshrund scene.

 

here's a vid from the sgc, best turns start at around 1 minute in.

[video:youtube]

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...but the schrund incident is around 9:20.

 

Jesus! I hope you had some fresh pants to change into after that!

 

Hell of a ski! :brew:

 

.

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Here's that video:

 

www.vimeo.com/11771053

 

it's prolly a lil long for most attention spans...but the schrund incident is around 9:20. Sorry bout the tunes as well, using my moms old computer and don't have any of my music on it. Not sure where the hiphop came from but it was better than nothin.

 

Whoa!!

And dude... the music... haha, nice :moondance:

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