telemarker Posted March 7, 2002 Share Posted March 7, 2002 Watching sport climbing videos I'm always struck with the same question...How does the climber pre-place their draws on such overhanging routes? Probably obvious to most, but not to me. Just wondering... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MysticNacho Posted March 7, 2002 Share Posted March 7, 2002 Clip and swing, clip and swing, clipping the rope as you go down, then pulling it through once all the bolts are clipped. Not that I've ever felt the need to pre-place anything, but that's how I'd do it. Or you could have a bad-ass lead it, that's even better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willstrickland Posted March 7, 2002 Share Posted March 7, 2002 quote: Originally posted by telemarker: Watching sport climbing videos I'm always struck with the same question...How does the climber pre-place their draws on such overhanging routes? Probably obvious to most, but not to me. Just wondering... While they're aiding it (working it) they just leave them in place after pulling the rope. Sometimes on really steep stuff the locals will fix draws on the bolts by using a lap-link on the hanger end and screwing it down. I watched Timmy Fairfield and his frenchie girlfriend working a route at the Hell Cave at American Fork a few years ago and she did this routine: Work a move or two from the bolt to figure out the sequence, pull up her stick-clip that was clipped to the next lowest draw, clip herself into the top draw with a daisy, hang off the daisy, clip another draw and the rope to the next higher hanger, unclip the daisy, yard on the rope to get to the hold she wanted, clip the stick clip to the lower draw and work the next sequence...essentially being on TR the entire time. Strange, but kept me curious enought to watch for a while...and seeing Fairfield pitch off the same hold on Ice Cream over and over was pretty funny. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goatboy Posted March 7, 2002 Share Posted March 7, 2002 Last time I was at Smith, there was a fellow who used a stick clip for the first bolt, then climbed up to it, clipped into it, untied from the rope, lowered the end of the rope down, pulled up his stick clip (which extended to about 16 feet or more), clipped the NEXT bolt, then bat-manned up that rope and free climbed from there. That's ONE way to do it. I suppose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted March 7, 2002 Share Posted March 7, 2002 isn't that why everyone has a girlfriend?? to do stuff like that for you...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telemarker Posted March 7, 2002 Author Share Posted March 7, 2002 Oh, thanks for the info. I just assumed the last climber who climbed the route left all his/her qd's on the bolts, if nothing more than a gesture of courtesy and good will for the next party on the route..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted March 7, 2002 Share Posted March 7, 2002 quote: Originally posted by goatboy: Last time I was at Smith, there was a fellow who used a stick clip for the first bolt, then climbed up to it, clipped into it, untied from the rope, lowered the end of the rope down, pulled up his stick clip (which extended to about 16 feet or more), clipped the NEXT bolt, then bat-manned up that rope and free climbed from there. That's ONE way to do it. I suppose. hey that was arlin setting up the king swing on scarface! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goatboy Posted March 8, 2002 Share Posted March 8, 2002 Wow that's sick! When was this photo taken? We were there about a month ago, I think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted March 15, 2002 Share Posted March 15, 2002 quote: Originally posted by goatboy: Wow that's sick! When was this photo taken? We were there about a month ago, I think. november 11 ish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted March 18, 2002 Share Posted March 18, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Dru: november 11 ish. i hate dru. i wish this rope had broken and he had fallen and died. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted March 18, 2002 Share Posted March 18, 2002 quote: Originally posted by G-spotter: i hate dru. i wish this rope had broken and he had fallen and died. whatever pooz. dats the last time i give you a deal on schwag. stop my sides hurt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.