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rocketparrotlet

Squire Creek Wall

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I have seen pictures and trip reports of Squire Creek Wall, and it looks amazing. Are there any topos available or descriptions of easy (5.7 and below) routes up this amazing wall?

 

Thanks,

Mark

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Czech out the Darrington guide called rattle and slime. You can find it on cd-rom or maybe download it from a website?

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As I have met you and somewhat understand your experience level (talked with you and sold you a few cams this winter).

 

A word of constructive advice about Squire Creek Wall, to my knowledge all "easy routes" are significatly run-out. All modern routes have 5.10 plus climbing somewhere on the route. This is a big wall. Go climb a lot more of the trade multipitch routes at the standard darrington areas: G-Giant, Blueberry, 3Oclock, Roan Wall before heading up to squire. One good place to go would be to get on some mixed harder, but shorter multipitch at Spring Mountain to test the lead skills at the 5.10 level, where the approach and commitment level are several notches below Squire Creek.

 

Good luck, once you become a legal adult, I would be more than happy to take you out on some Darrington multipitch.

 

Your motivation and enthusiasm to get on long trade routes is inspiring, which I wish was the trend in more of the subadult climbers I observe on a regular basis at the local Everett plastic pulling venue of choice. I assure you however, that taking route one setp in difficulty and comittment at a time will ensure you have a long and enjoiyable trad climbing career.

 

Edited by shapp

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I have been doing my best to get out to Darrington, but unfortunately I have only been once, on Big Tree 1. I would like to climb out there more, but one of my partners hates slab, two work weekends now, and a fourth is not technically skilled enough for me to feel comfortable taking him on some Darrington multipitch yet.

 

I don't have a partner for the weekend yet. Is anyone interested in heading out this way, perhaps Green Giant Buttress or Exfoliation Dome?

 

Also, what about this route on Squire Creek Wall?

 

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/911137/Re_TR_Squire_Creek_Wall_Dick_R

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Also, what about this route on Squire Creek Wall?

Go ahead, if you like the looks of the Black Gully of Death. Isn't it rated D3... or D4?

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If you stay just below Illusion Wall, you can rope up and trend left/up for a couple roped pitches and brushy gully simulclimb no harder than 5.8. I think the real early seaon crux is avoiding the sometimes large :shock: spontaneous rockfall in the vicinity of Strawberry ledge area. It's a big face- be careful out there-

 

MH

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Mark -

Regarding my TR that you have pointed to as a "what about this route".

Don't be fooled by the relatively low technical grade I put out there when questioned about it.

Here are some points to consider:

1) Like MH said it is a LARGE face. It would be easy to wander into areas where you could instantly be way out of your league and retreat would be extremely difficult. It is after all slab climbing and protection can be difficult in areas.

2) The Black Gully of Death is named so for a reason. Yes I have climbed through, up and out of it but I would not recommend it to anyone let alone someone with limited experience on what I would consider an alpine(?) big wall.

3) The chickenshit gully is not necessarily a "multi pitch" climb. Where speed = safety I have yet to break it into actual pitches. I hav always climbed as a simul climb and considering it is a gully with a potential for rockfall I would not want to linger in the shooting gallery, therefore it takes a competent team of equal skill to climb through fast and efficiently.

4) Retreat from any point past the Strawberry ledges or the Black Gully of Death is difficult and takes some ability to navigate/route find over a vast sea of slab. This equates in my mind to being able to visualize correctly how far you can rap on your rope, etc. etc.

5) Psychological factors - again as MH said this face is HUGE and the exposure is GREAT. Everyones tolerance for exposure is different but I would strongly suggest the Blueberry Route on Exfo Dome or something on Green Giant Butt before heading to Squire Creek Wall to gauge how well you do with such exposure. It is one thing to stand at the edge of something and look down and feel all right. It is another when you are on a route near the top of your abilities and the stress is compounded by thousands of feet of exposure and knowing backing off will be difficult. I would say that Squire Creek is NOT the place to find out if you or your partner can handle those pressures.

6) The dick ridge route and Chickenshit Gully route are devoid of bolts so setting belay stations and or knowing when to end your "pitches" is slightly more difficult than a traditional multi pitch route.

7) Descending the Dick Ridge route and Chickenshit Gully - I have always simul downclimbed the route as there is (unless you want to leave me all your gear) a lack of suitable rappel anchors. That being said the knowledge that you will not be rapping the route but re cllimbing it in reverse make it a little more commiting in my opinion than a traditional multi pitch.

 

I am not one to try and steer people away from their ambitions. I do not consider Squire Creek Wall to be a private playground for the relatively small group of people that climb there. I am however a person that would encourage those relatively new to the game to take their time and work up to the larger objectives.

I think Shapp has some great suggestions in his post and I hope that you will take the suggestions of myself and others to heart and consider training your way up to this wall.

 

Cheers and best of luck -

Tyson geBauer

 

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Thank you for your advice. It seems then that this wall is more serious than I had originally imagined- I'll give the West Buttress a try this summer and see how I feel from there.

 

-Mark

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