Rafe1234 Posted May 10, 2010 Share Posted May 10, 2010 (edited) Theres maybe a 5.8+ i'sh move to get established there now instead of just hopping up on the ledge. You're still at a rest stance placing your micro once up on it..so it didn't change the route much. Edited May 10, 2010 by Rafe1234 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keenwesh Posted May 10, 2010 Share Posted May 10, 2010 damn, I've sat on that block unroped before. felt solid... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckaroo Posted May 10, 2010 Share Posted May 10, 2010 Looked at the ledge and debris today. Looks like vandalism. There's not enough rock at the base to indicate something came from above and knocked it off. The ledge it came off is flat and wide and the face at the back of the ledge is flat. There's no way that block could have come off there without some help. Â Has to be climbers too because it's one pitch up. That really sucks, climbers shouldn't do sh*t like that. Hope this place becomes a park and if people get caught doing sh*t like that they get put in jail. Â It messed up the base area too, damaged the trees, busted one of the flat rocks people sit on and left sharp debris everywhere. Someone is going to have to clean up after the pukes that did this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckaroo Posted May 10, 2010 Share Posted May 10, 2010 The block could have been taken out by a hydraulic jack. A friend of mine did that often in Oregon. Â Why the heck would someone do that? It's de-facing the rock in a major way, leaving an ugly scar. It's changing an established route in a major established area. Â People get a major load of flack for chipping holds and now some idiot has thrown off a 10 ton block? For what? Trundling jollies? Doesn't make any sense. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Good2Go Posted May 10, 2010 Share Posted May 10, 2010 Did you clip that bolt? Seems like it's in the perfect spot now. Too bad its totally untrustworthy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
summitchaserCJB Posted May 10, 2010 Share Posted May 10, 2010 (edited) "That really sucks, climbers shouldn't do sh*t like that. Hope this place becomes a park and if people get caught doing sh*t like that they get put in jail." Â Â I agree with the first sentence. Not so much the second. More like get beat up by other climbers. I kid I kid. Edited May 10, 2010 by summitchaserCJB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keenwesh Posted May 10, 2010 Share Posted May 10, 2010 why would someone drop that ledge? I really doubt that it fell off naturally but then again, why the hell would someone spend the time and energy to knock it down? I want to know more... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sol Posted May 10, 2010 Share Posted May 10, 2010 Classic internet rumor-milling going on here. Â Apparently none of you guys have been around for major spnontaneous index rockfall. But it happens, all by its own, and compared to what ive seen, that shit is small. Â Meanwhile on the UTW, the crux of P1 of The Golden Road fell off sometime last week. Apparently levered off by cams placed to aid through in wet conditions. Though the first ascencionest got a bit of shit for bolting the crack it used to form, it proabaly saved the climbers from serious injury or death. Â Â It should just be a reminder to us all that no matter how safe we try to make climbing, it puts us in places where objective dangers are high, and we could quite easily and horrificly get killed. I almost got killed by rockfall in the Picket range last summer, and almost killed my partner near the base of Dragons of Eden last year. Both totally freak accidents where we got incredibly lucky and against the odds somehow lived. Â So tell you friends how much you care about them, look your significant other in the eyes and tell him/her you love them before you head to the crag/mountains, shelter that belay, use a long tether at a stance if possible, for fucks sake wear a helmet, and climb on. Â Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
summitchaserCJB Posted May 10, 2010 Share Posted May 10, 2010 Amen brother. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc_leclerc Posted May 10, 2010 Share Posted May 10, 2010 So tell you friends how much you care about them, look your significant other in the eyes and tell him/her you love them before you head to the crag/mountains, shelter that belay, use a long tether at a stance if possible, for fucks sake wear a helmet, and climb on.  WORD! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigwallben Posted May 10, 2010 Share Posted May 10, 2010 There was a foothold on that block that I really loved. Sad to see it go. Really sad if someone did this on purpose. Â Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt_m Posted May 10, 2010 Share Posted May 10, 2010 Found a great pic of the ledge and boulder... Â Â Photos by Ben Gilkison / www.bentroy.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigwallben Posted May 10, 2010 Share Posted May 10, 2010 R.I.P. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sobo Posted May 10, 2010 Share Posted May 10, 2010 So tell you friends how much you care about them, look your significant other in the eyes and tell him/her you love them before you head to the crag/mountains, shelter that belay, use a long tether at a stance if possible, for fucks sake wear a helmet, and climb on.  WORD! ESPECIALLY if you're going to on-sight free solo a lot... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pilchuck71 Posted May 10, 2010 Share Posted May 10, 2010 So tell you friends how much you care about them, look your significant other in the eyes and tell him/her you love them before you head to the crag/mountains, shelter that belay, use a long tether at a stance if possible, for fucks sake wear a helmet, and climb on.  WORD! ESPECIALLY if you're going to on-sight free solo a lot...  WORD x 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckaroo Posted May 10, 2010 Share Posted May 10, 2010 It is a rumor that I heard straight from reliable sources. And I know that block very well, it could not come off by itself. The only way it could happen naturally would be if it was struck from above by larger rocks. I looked at it yesterday, there wasn't enough fresh debris at the base to indicate that. Â Your photo is not even close to a flat ledge. The ledge this block was on is totally flat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NateF Posted May 10, 2010 Share Posted May 10, 2010 a rumor that I heard straight from reliable sources that soundbite gave me a good chuckle. all the news that's fit to print! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crillz Posted May 10, 2010 Share Posted May 10, 2010 As someone mentioned, P2 of City Park might actually be safer now. Â Previously, if you were to blow the low thin moves, you were almost guaranteed a trip down to the top of that block - maybe not now. Â I've really got no opinion on the trundle as I haven't been to that ledge recently. Probably not good to piss off the owner of that land until the sale goes through though. That would have been loud as hell! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted May 10, 2010 Share Posted May 10, 2010 Perhaps an arrest will be made shortly...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dberdinka Posted May 10, 2010 Share Posted May 10, 2010 Sol, are you saying someone was actually on it? and ripped a huge block off Golden Road? !!! Â Classic internet rumor-milling going on here. Â Apparently none of you guys have been around for major spnontaneous index rockfall. But it happens, all by its own, and compared to what ive seen, that shit is small. Â Meanwhile on the UTW, the crux of P1 of The Golden Road fell off sometime last week. Apparently levered off by cams placed to aid through in wet conditions. Though the first ascencionest got a bit of shit for bolting the crack it used to form, it proabaly saved the climbers from serious injury or death. Â Â It should just be a reminder to us all that no matter how safe we try to make climbing, it puts us in places where objective dangers are high, and we could quite easily and horrificly get killed. I almost got killed by rockfall in the Picket range last summer, and almost killed my partner near the base of Dragons of Eden last year. Both totally freak accidents where we got incredibly lucky and against the odds somehow lived. Â So tell you friends how much you care about them, look your significant other in the eyes and tell him/her you love them before you head to the crag/mountains, shelter that belay, use a long tether at a stance if possible, for fucks sake wear a helmet, and climb on. Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckaroo Posted May 10, 2010 Share Posted May 10, 2010 Apparently none of you guys have been around for major spontaneous index rockfall. Â Just across the valley on the new Lake Serene trail near dusk a few years ago. I was coming down from a summit of Main and decided to stop and eat the last of my food before taking the trail down. A section the size of a VW bug came down and smashed across the trail. It didn't stop until it got to the valley floor. There was sparks where it hit the trail and you could hear it the whole way down. Â I wasn't even really hungry it was just a reflex to stop and eat. If I hadn't done so I probably would have got the chop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckaroo Posted May 10, 2010 Share Posted May 10, 2010 Long time Index route setters.  and that's besides the point. The physical evidence points to vandalism  Someone needs to call Pope and friends onto this thread. Let them weigh in on this bullsh*t. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryanb Posted May 10, 2010 Share Posted May 10, 2010 The major wind storm the day before the fresh rock fall was first noticed must have been a clever cover caused by the stealthy perpetrator:  http://cliffmass.blogspot.com/2010/05/extraordinary-may-storm.html  I'm sure we can all agree this is simplest and there for best explanation.  I wouldn't be surprised if he/she also caused the major low land freeze earlier this winter to help get the rock moving with frost wedging.  Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckaroo Posted May 10, 2010 Share Posted May 10, 2010 As someone mentioned, P2 of City Park might actually be safer now. Previously, if you were to blow the low thin moves, you were almost guaranteed a trip down to the top of that block - maybe not now.   That's a crap reason if that's the reason. That's like putting bolts every 5 feet.  If someone is too much of a gutless wimp to handle the risk or they don't have the skills then don't get on it in the first place.  If you're going to trundle blocks until Index is safe you'll have to make it flat as a parking lot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigwallben Posted May 10, 2010 Share Posted May 10, 2010 Please someone glue that block back in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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