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kukuzka1

[TR] Dorado needle - Direct sw buttress 9/4/2005

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Trip: Dorado needle - Direct sw buttress

 

Date: 9/4/2006

 

Trip Report:

I dont know if anyones done this before me and marko did this? but its a quality two pitch variation to the 1985 sw buttress route with great rock and pro. after exiting the aproach gully instead of traversing right to the cauthorn start go strait up the buttress toe via 4th class rock until you see an obviouse couple vertical cracks on the left center. climb the right crack[5.8] until you must exit right via a small rock pillar[5.9+-5.10]to reach easier ground.the second pitch climbs strait up with a akward couple of 5.8 moves[slightly wet when we did it]then up some solid mid 5th rock to join the regular route at the large white slabs. if its been done my apoligies but it should be out there so climbers looking for a little more difficult rock can enjoy it. mpreiss

 

Gear Notes:

the 5.8 crack cams/nuts up to 4 inches. the crux thin cams/nuts

Edited by kukuzka1

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Did you do this with Mark Bunker? If so, I think my partner and I were right behind you guys on the route. We watched you do the variation and it looked good, but harder than I wanted to lead so we didn't follow you.

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I was the one with Dan on that trip. Looked like a nice route, and I recall you guys were cruising!

 

9/4/2005
A minor detail, but IIRC, we did the trip on the same date in 2006. Edited by pup_on_the_mountain

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thanks, I couldnt remember if it was 2005 or 6? also i dropped a new large metoulios cam[blue] on the first pitch, hopefully you found it and are useing it.

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