KaskadskyjKozak Posted April 30, 2010 Share Posted April 30, 2010 at the top of midway theres a 10 foot section that you have to chimney. or at least I did, like butt against jello tower feet up on the polished wall of castle. right where that fixed pin is. it blows. Turn around and it is easier (butt against the main rock, feet against Jello Tower). I protected that part with a #4 cam. I completely suck at rock climbing and I led it (twice) :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telemarker Posted April 30, 2010 Share Posted April 30, 2010 yeah, there are edges and stuff that you use to get up it, but they're all so polished, I hate polished!!!! the pitch above is sweet though. I took a friend who had never climbed a multi pitch trad route before up it and he really enjoyed it. hopefully he'll buy a rack, after all, he works at a gear shop, and is there any other reason to do that? True, the edges are polished. But that only adds to the mystique. And yes, that 2nd pitch is outstanding and such a great feature for new trad leaders. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJRiha Posted April 30, 2010 Share Posted April 30, 2010 at the top of midway theres a 10 foot section that you have to chimney. or at least I did, like butt against jello tower feet up on the polished wall of castle. right where that fixed pin is. it blows. Is it easier that way? I do butt against Castle, and feet on Jello. There's a perfect edge for your left foot. It feels insecure, but I don't see falling as you can work your right leg and arm between the rocks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keenwesh Posted April 30, 2010 Share Posted April 30, 2010 next time I'm up there I'll try that. I like how this has turned into a beta blast for the 10 feet of 5.6 on midway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackhead Posted April 30, 2010 Share Posted April 30, 2010 why in blazes would you rappel Pearly Gates in the dark, assaulted by goats, when you can stroll down the backside in flipflops with a beer in hand? just wonderin' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc_leclerc Posted April 30, 2010 Share Posted April 30, 2010 Is the walk off from outer space do-able in rock shoes? or bare foot? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dane Posted April 30, 2010 Share Posted April 30, 2010 easy in rock shoes..even blindingly tight rock shoes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrogdortheBurninator Posted April 30, 2010 Share Posted April 30, 2010 loose fitting rock shoes would be fine, but I prefer shoes. There are no chimneys and such, so it really isnt a big deal to clip some shoes on you harness, or have the second carry a small pack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crillz Posted April 30, 2010 Share Posted April 30, 2010 I wouldn't go down barefoot, but I don't know how tuff your feet are. Once upon a time I heard there was a way to rap off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keenwesh Posted April 30, 2010 Share Posted April 30, 2010 going down that gully in rockshoes would suck ass. don't do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telemarker Posted April 30, 2010 Share Posted April 30, 2010 Or you can rappel SCW. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc_leclerc Posted April 30, 2010 Share Posted April 30, 2010 I was hoping not to carry anything up the climb other than my chalkbag... but thanks for the beta guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telemarker Posted April 30, 2010 Share Posted April 30, 2010 Ooh! Pre-spray! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eldiente Posted April 30, 2010 Share Posted April 30, 2010 No shoes needed for the walk-off, easy in climbing shoes to walk back to the base. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocketparrotlet Posted April 30, 2010 Share Posted April 30, 2010 Is the walk off from outer space do-able in rock shoes? or bare foot? Are you going to be in Leavenworth this weekend? If so, I might see you there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dane Posted May 1, 2010 Share Posted May 1, 2010 Ooh! Pre-spray! The upcoming spray should be entertaining Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
summitchaserCJB Posted May 2, 2010 Share Posted May 2, 2010 And big bros are total overkill for Damnation. The entitre route protects nicely with small and medium cams. In the chimney portion, when in doubt, look over your left shoulder for abundant pro opps. Completely agree. The pro on damnation is way good. Aliens are a must IMO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJRiha Posted May 2, 2010 Share Posted May 2, 2010 I was hoping not to carry anything up the climb other than my chalkbag... but thanks for the beta guys Hey, nice work on that one BTW Marc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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