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Thin Fingers Rating!


Thin Fingers Rating  

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  1. 1. Thin Fingers Rating

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Summitchasercjb. Done a bunch of routes a Nason Ridge and WOW....IMHO it's the best sport climbing destination in the state by leaps and bounds. If anyone here hasn't been there, they really need to go get some!!! It's mighty steep with incredible friction. I can't really give you any beta on all of the routes I've done out there because I don't have a clue what they are...other than 5 star quality!!!

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Park next to a cluster of mailbox's on Hwy 2. About 15 miles east of Steven's pass. Maybe 15.1-15.2. Or if you're coming from the L-worth, park 2.3 miles west of the rest area. The trail is DIRECTLY BEHIND the cluster of mailboxes. The approach trail is very straight forward and takes 15 minutes.

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11c???...not likely. I think everyone should be climbing at Nason Ridge where there are no guidebooks...or just leave your guidebooks at home when you go cragging. If it looks good, then climb it.

 

ahhh one of those "don't worry about the grades, just go climbing" types, as they emphatically tell you what the grade of a particular route isn't! :crazy:

 

i've climbed at quite a few areas over the years, and yeah, i think TF would be around 11b or c at many other places, only because of the boulder problem. if you skirt the boulder problem, i'd say 10d. but in conforming to index's ratings, 11a with slab crux is certainly consistent.

 

and yeah, nason's pretty fun. the steeps are unfortunately a bit of a rarity for us seattlites.

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.11a sounds fine to me. The route narrative includes the following: The technical crux, a face move off this ledge, can be avoided by a traverse in from the right. An 11a move should be kinda hard – and it is literally one move. It seems in line with Yosemite. Eg the Calf (.11b) on the Apron has harder moves than the TF boulder problem. TF seems a bit easier than the Big Toes variation. TF wasn’t in the “original” Index guide but was mentioned in the Beckey guide as being 5.10. What’s Angel crack rated these days?

 

I seem to remember that when I first climbed TF we were placing #2 Friends (tight) in the hand crack section and now #2.5s are the ticket. Is it possible the crack has expanded a bit?

 

 

Not noting a bouldery move seems fishy to me.....I can say that I have onsight 3rd classed an .11b route. I usually omit the part about the .11b ending a body length or so above the ground and the remainder of the route is only easy 5th class.

 

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Not noting a bouldery move seems fishy to me.....I can say that I have onsight 3rd classed an .11b route. I usually omit the part about the .11b ending a body length or so above the ground and the remainder of the route is only easy 5th class.

 

Yet, you had to climb a harder move to get to the easy 5th and that seems to be a relevant piece of information that should be included in whatever you want to communicate. If I understand well, the reason for not including bouldery starts in ratings is because of the lack of commitment for the technical crux, which therefore places emphasis on commitment over technical difficulty.

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