dwillym Posted April 20, 2010 Share Posted April 20, 2010 Trip: Mt. Hood - Wy'East Date: 4/18/2010 Trip Report: Had a looooong trip up the Wy'East route on Sunday with a group of 10. Skies were clear and the weather was solid. The snow felt good but there were a few inches of powder on top of the condensed stuff. Dropped down across the White River glacier around 7500 feet or so, and climbed up towards and to the right of the Steel Cliffs. The bulk of the elevation was gained here on moderate slopes in full sun and with great views. At about 10500 feet we gained the top of the cliffs and things leveled out. There were a few spots among the rocks where you'd punch through so tread carefully. It was pretty cool to see the standard route from this perspective. We moved along the cliffs towards the crux, which involved a short climb up & around a mushroom, then a traverse across & up to the summit area (see below). Snow conditions weren't good enough for arresting a potential fall so we protected with two 60m fixed lines to prussik along. Slope was about 45 degrees on the traverse. A tumble anywhere on that portion would not have been pleasant. We started just before 3am and were on the summit by 1pm. Most of us descended the old chute, and a couple guys rappelled down the PG. There was a lot of downtime with the rope set-up and we were a large group so things took some time, but it was hard to complain about that many hours on the mountain when it's so damn beautiful up there. Looking West towards the Hogsback Fixed lines - up & around that mushroom & across & up (gulp) Gear Notes: Axe 2nd tool Crampons 2 Ropes Pickets Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevetimetravlr Posted April 20, 2010 Share Posted April 20, 2010 Nice one! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocky_joe Posted April 20, 2010 Share Posted April 20, 2010 wish it would have been bluebird like that when i did it last spring. Good work and sweet pics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sanchez Posted April 21, 2010 Share Posted April 21, 2010 Wow that top part (the mushroom as you called it) changes so much year to year. I almost didn't recognize it- the cliff below the mushroom was completely snow covered when I was there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
morphius916 Posted April 22, 2010 Share Posted April 22, 2010 Glad my contribution to the collective climber-brain was put to good use... [driving up to Leavin(Oregon)worth last wk I caught a pre-dawn glimpse of Hood and thought to myself "time for some Wy'East"] I will be following your bootpath/wagon-trail tomorrow night Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnGo Posted April 22, 2010 Share Posted April 22, 2010 great photos and a nice post. Congrats! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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