Climbing boots for Patagonia

[Kraken]

What do the folks who have climbed in Patagonia use for an approach/climbing boot when rock shoes won't work? I'm looking at a the La Sportiva Trango Extreme EVO Light GTX. Slightly insulated, fully crampon compatible, light, sturdy and technical. I already have the Nepal Extremes but those may be a little too much. Not interested in The Baturas...those things are about as durable as a used jimmy hat.

 

Thoughts?

 

Edited April 20, 2010 by Kraken

[Dane]

The Extreme GTX and the regular Trango GTX get a lot of use in Patagonia (not like I would know from being there) but from what I have read.

 

http://colinhaley.blogspot.com/

Take a look at his Fitzroy solo couple pages back or the solo with the helmet cam this winter.

 

I like and use my Trango Extremes a lot. Nice lwt option to the Nepal. Hard to think of a better lwt and warm boot to do it all, if they fit your feet.

[unklehuck]

Second that - Extreme GTX are great boots. Kept my toes from freezing on a few single digit temp days this winter. Very light, stiff enough for steepish ice and they climb moderate rock pretty well.

Edited April 20, 2010 by unklehuck

[t_rutl]

i like my extreme gtx's a lot as well. slogged up rainier during the summer and climbed -5 degree cody ice in the winter both in them. my feet run cold so the -5 days gave me chilly toes but nothing that wasnt manageable.

[Blake]

For rock routes from the Torre Valley (Media Luna, El Mocho, Chiaro De Luna on Exupery...) you just need sneakers and maybe some aluminum crampons. Ditto for rock climbs on Guillamet and Mermoz, accessed from the North. For other approaches (Paso Superior, the icecap) or mixed snow/ice climbs, anything similar to the Scarpa Freney, Sportiva Trango Extreme EVO, Mammut Mamook, etc is popular. Basically, lightweight boots that have front and back crampon compatibility.

[fern]

depends a bit where you are going and what you are tackling. Some things in Fitzroy area you can approach with just tennies. Some rock things you rap the line, so just leave boots at the base, can be heavier. Obviously the steeper ice and neve lines will need ice boots. It's nowhere near as cold as ice-climbing in the PNW and the approaches are long, steep and often loose.