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thinair28

Conditions on Hood SS?

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We are going after Sandy Glacier Headwall this weekend, summit bid on Sunday. I'll give a conditions update for that part of the mountain if everything goes according to plan.

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Just spoke with a guide service on the mountain and they aren't sending any parties up today. Also, this past week they haven't sent anyone above 10K. Conditions look to be improving for Saturday and Sunday. My group is still driving down Saturday morning and camping at Triangle Moraine or I-rock. Weather permitting, we will summit on Sunday.

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Julian, I'd be the BS is still in what with the melt-thaw cycle that's been going on. It'd be worth a hike up there for sure. Also, things on the N side of Illumination Rock are most likely in great condition for some mixed cragging. You might see me up there this weekend.

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This quote came from an attempted climb early today:

 

"Got turned back at upper triangle today, low vis, winds and snow but the big issue was a CT13 Q2 at 12 inches SF at 28 degrees and a CT21 at 30 inches, failing on needles and crystals, maybe by Sunday the mountain will settle out."

 

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Thanks for the info. I'll be up there tomorrow. Probably setting up camp below the triangle on the rocks. Hopefully Sunday is the day.

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We made an attempt yesterday. Got up just before Hot Rocks and finally called it. We'd post-holed in 0 visibility for hours and were exhausted. Hard crusty snow, low visibility. Our water bottles froze with the wind chill.

 

Did see some avvy sign near Hot Rocks and beyond.

 

Gonna try again sometime, hopefully when things settle out!

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Hey Colin, did you make it up to I-Rock? My buddy and I went for it this morning after reading your conditions predictions and deciding against a Black Spider attempt due to predicted wind-loading of Eastern slopes. Conditions were awful at the top of the Palmer, with high winds carrying ice crystals blowing west to east, and we both ended up caked in ice. We started digging a tent platform to wait it out, but while cutting out a block observed a 2 inch windslab slide right off the top of it, and promptly bailed.

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No probs with pushing your own limits but why to push the objective danger? Smith Rawks were nice and warm the last weekend.

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Temperature Inversion?

Current 4pm NWAC automated stations at T-Line Lodge showing lower temps at 6,000' than at the Top of Mile station at 7,000' (33F @ 6,000' vs. 37F @ 7,000'). If true then one would reasonably expect to find significant icefall from the upper slopes. If true then it could easily be raining today at higher elevations.

I was thinking maybe to head up Monday night after things settle down over the weekend, but then I'm an old guy..

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No rain up high today. Just a lot of blowing snow and very low visibility. The winds were moderate around the 30s with stronger gusts in the 40mph range. New snow at the 10k was everything to wind blown rime ice to wind deposited snow that varied in depth of 15-35cm. The surface had a mixture of new snow particle and some grauple mixed in. Bill, call me this weekend and I'll give you another up date. I plan on climbing on Sat night and Sun night.

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Looking for a update on SS conditions. I am planning on going up Saturday - Sunday. I am kind of worried about the sudden heat wave. Does anyone see this as being a problem or am I just being ridiculous.

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As of yesterday, the Old Chute is being climbed. It is steep and icy - about 300-400 feet of it must be downclimbed facing the slope. There was some significant rock and ice falling, even before the sun hit that side of the mountain. A large avalanche had come down the chute into the bowl to the left of the Hogsback - I was told this had happened on Friday.

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I was up there yesterday as well- watch out for falling rock and ice, especially if this heat wave continues. A fairly large chunk of ice hit me while I was descending the Old Chute and bruised my arm pretty bad. As for the avalanche, a local told me it is one of the biggest slides he has ever seen on the south side.

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For what its worth, here is a shot from Saturday the 10th.

SS.jpg

Edited by MJaso

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The avalanche must have been on Saturday, no earlier than 8am. It wasn't there when we went up and down the chute on Saturday morning.

 

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Yeah the slide is pretty jaw dropping. Also of note are (1) the hidden cornice at the top of the old crater route, and (2)the wicked thin spot on the ridge line to the summit. It must only be 1.5' wide with 45 deg snow on either side. Pretty wild, please be mindful of both.

 

This is the slide on Sunday

Copy_of_IMG_9213.jpg

 

This is the cornice, I did wait to take this shot after mentioning to the people that they were sitting on it. They are in the process of moving, and their identities have been concealed.

 

9191.jpg

 

The climber in front is just past the narrow bit.

 

 

Copy_of_IMG_9190.jpg

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I was also up on Saturday morning. I made the summit around 6:30am. The condition of the snow/ice was surprisingly solid for the warm temps. Heading up the old chute was steep but solid. The summit was fairly dangerous, the path leading from the old chute to the summit was narrow and very close to the edge of a huge snow cornice. I could very easily see the cornice give way at some point. BE CAREFUL! You don’t want a repeat of what happened up on Mt. Saint Helens

 

 

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What, ... you mean this cornice?

 

g11-hood-117.jpg

 

Take the Old Chute variation off to the right this time of year and climb as early as possible, as in off the summit by sunrise.

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I was thinking of heading up the SS this weekend as well, well, I was thinking of heading up the North side till I read this: http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lat=45.36266359991396&lon=-121.70379638671875&site=pqr&smap=1&unit=0&lg=en&FcstType=text

 

which says, at 9000', a low Friday night of 57!

 

can anyone let me know, with it being this warm is even the south side not feasible? will the old chute be a mess of icefall even way before sunrise? thanks

 

 

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I know a lot of folks who will not climb Hood SS in July.

 

Wait, I know a lot of folks who will not climb Hood SS!

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