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jeepnphreak

infinite bliss and its bolts

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dude, why worry? just go do the climb and if the god's decide to piss on you, just go do something else (if you wanted a bolted alpine kinda route, go to mazama and do something on the goat wall)

 

1) I was just wondering. It would suck to drive two states, hike the approach and have the wrong gear. The topo do say is a sport routs but I have stumbled upon a rumor that the bolts may get chopped. Just a question is I just trying to plan a road trip. If I lived in the area it would not be such an issue, but I dont.

2) I plan on climbing other routes, that one just happend to be on my list of many climbs to look up and gather info on.

3) now Im going to look up mazama and the goat wall and see whats thats all about now.

Edited by jeepnphreak

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hey once again... none of the bolts are chopped. stop being paranoid. i would be one of the first to know. its just old spray man. when are you coming up? the mtn gets some weird random weather including late snow... if so look up condorphamine addiction in leavenworth. 7 pitch 10b, all bolts, climbs 500' on the condor buttress. then at wa pass on south early winter spire theres a all bolt 11c called cascadia/cacadian? alpine bolt clippn is fun. the same goes for gear routes that are up high. do it all and be a well rounded climber.

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when were you thinking of doing this? I'm coming out at the end of may and have been eyeing this for a while now. Let me know. chris.

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when are you coming up? the mtn gets some weird random weather including late snow... if so look up condorphamine addiction in leavenworth. 7 pitch 10b, all bolts, climbs 500' on the condor buttress. then at wa pass on south early winter spire theres a all bolt 11c called cascadia/cacadian? alpine bolt clippn is fun. the same goes for gear routes that are up high. do it all and be a well rounded climber.

 

I not 100% sure yet. So far my plans are to hit City of rocks this next month. Lovers leap and yosmity in june ( we have a wedding to go to in reno) and then head to J- tree for early july ish. Now Iam prably going to be bumming around cirque of the towers and devils tower after that so ... it would be late Augest or september.

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if so look up condorphamine addiction in leavenworth. 7 pitch 10b, all bolts, climbs 500' on the condor buttress.

 

I googled this bad boy this look like a pretty sweet climb, Ill get that added to my list of routes to hit up.

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j tree in july -- getting in shape for a trip to venus or mercury? it'll be 120 in the shade.

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if so look up condorphamine addiction in leavenworth. 7 pitch 10b, all bolts, climbs 500' on the condor buttress.

 

I googled this bad boy this look like a pretty sweet climb, Ill get that added to my list of routes to hit up.

Nice. I'm not a big sporto but that is my favorite sport route. And it is overrated IMO.

PS- Link up the pitches. And skip some of the bolts if you want hardman points.

Edited by summitchaserCJB

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You misinterpret the situation out there. Beacon has no king, only a Mayor and I'm simply a janitor / maintenance man. But hell, that's the spirit! And many happy go fuck yourselfs in return.

 

Just say no to crag police!!!!!!

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As previous mentioned, bring your bathing suit if you're going to J Tree in July. You'll be heat-struck and laying comatose in Barker Dam the whole time.

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j tree in july -- getting in shape for a trip to venus or mercury? it'll be 120 in the shade.

 

Yeah I have been there in July before, I handle the heat well. I have an outside job that keeps me use to working in the heat and sun. Besides when its that warm out it keeps the crowds down.

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Just say no to crag police!!!!!!

Again, either your reading comprehension is suffering or you need a limbic system tuneup. There are no crag police down at here at Beacon, just a shared sentiment about it staying a trad area and remaining true to its history and legacy. There is no shortage of clip joints and jobs around and absolutely no need to turn Beacon into another one. And that's what IB is, just a standalone clip job, all-purpose sad monumnent, and a bold statement about some of the more pathetic aspects of contemporary 'climbing'.

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second that! most folks spraying about it havent even been on it. once you finish the approach and look up from the first pitch, youll understand both why its there and why its bolted. unless your too hard headed to appriciate long bolted routes. ya it was unfortunate the map used showed a earlier wilderness boundry. in fact i dont beleive they had the new boundries printed when it was put into motion! years have passed, the nfs has let it go, and so should everyone else. it exists now- its pretty fun and unique- im sure folks arn't going to go out of their way to put up similar routes in the wilderness again, knowingly or not. climb it or dont.

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Don't like it? Don't climb it. That's simple. I think it's a wo rk of art, not to mention lots of hard work and money by the LW and friends! I'm not a boulderer, but see no problem with others enjoying it to their heart's content--even if it sometimes negatively impacts the areas around the routes.

 

Go have fun and try not to be too judgemental about someone else's idea of fun/adventure.

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Just say no to crag police!!!!!!

Again, either your reading comprehension is suffering or you need a limbic system tuneup. There are no crag police down at here at Beacon, just a shared sentiment about it staying a trad area and remaining true to its history and legacy. There is no shortage of clip joints and jobs around and absolutely no need to turn Beacon into another one. And that's what IB is, just a standalone clip job, all-purpose sad monumnent, and a bold statement about some of the more pathetic aspects of contemporary 'climbing'.

 

the great and wonderful oz has spoken.

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You havn't climbed IB nor looked at it and seldom stray from Beacon but you promote chop'n IB that makes you a crag cop plane and simple :rolleyes:

It's a POS plain and simple which might make me a alpine, wilderness, or stupidity cop, but a crag it ain't (which is half the frigging point). If there really were any 'crag police' (or anyone not struck by community paralysis) it would have been gone within a month of it going up.

 

P.S. What do we have to say to get this moved to spray? Will posting giganormous pics do it...?

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My tip would be to bring along some beta for the Fee Demo Wall, then even if something happens to IB you'll have a back up plan. Or, if you're really looking for a heaping helping of slabby adventure, have a look see at Slab Daddy up at Darrington. You'll find beta for both by searching this site.

 

 

 

 

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Oh, and since the OP's question has been answered, and this dead horse doesn't even have a shred of flesh left on it worth beating, I've gotta say that we're done here.

 

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