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layton

new mcclain canada guidebook

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Is this the one that Andrew Boyd and McLane are working on? Heard from Dan at cluimb on that they have teamed up on a new guidebook, but I thought he said it was for the sea to sky area? In any case, the more guide books Guidbooks are the bomb.

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No, the new squamish comprehensive is still in the works, canadian rock - western select is finished and now in the stores (climb on has it anyway). It is impressive - including bow valley and icefields parkway stuff that has never been in a guidebook before, plus bow valley trad and sport, llouise, ghost, yam, jasper, then spilli, castlegar, gimli, revelstoke, kamloops, yak, skaha, squamish (murrin to chek and beyond), etc, etc.

http://highcol.ca/books.html

 

There is also a new squamish bouldering guide by Marc B apparently very close to release - I haven't seen it but many have told me it is really good (and huge).

Todd

 

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Elaho now High Col I see.

 

I wonder if the "coming soon" stuff will ever update now? KM had it up with no changes on the Elaho site for like 8 years...

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So I have had the pleasure of perusing this guide a few times recently, one of my friends bought it. I must say its nicely laid out, the pictures stunning, the colour topos very enticing and probably one of the nicer guides I have seen.

 

However this is a select guide of Western Canada, my interpertation is that if I was going to travel to these crags I would expect them to be the best routes in all of Western Canada.

 

I cant speak about the rest of the book but for the Squamish section I was unimpressed

 

1) There are routes in this guide that have been dirty for decades, and he puts them in there with the caveat they need to be cleaned and bolted.

 

2) Many of the same mistakes in the most recent guide have been passed on.

 

3) Silly routes like beaver fever, a "new route" climb orfice fish, step over on 1m of new rock and climb split beaver.

 

4)I was enticed by the colour topos of the malemute and figured if they were in the select guide they must be worthy. So I decided to check out the "newly cleaned" Malemute multipitches and as I should have expected they were: dirty, missing anchors, oddly placed bolts basically exactly what you would expect from the lower malemute now that the approach has been closed for years.

 

5) Marble Canyon, I dont think anything in this park is select, and definetly not in all of western canada

 

I was expecting a super hit list of awesome routes, not just a collection of ok routes from current select guides. I doubt I would pay 50$ for it but I would give it a look over if I was planning a road trip

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