summitchaserCJB Posted March 30, 2010 Share Posted March 30, 2010 (edited) My brother and I are going to be down near Yosemite in May and we have two days tentatively free and want to tick off some classics. Some background. We are solid trad leaders, even though my bro has gotten a little soft since getting married. I can lead trad up to 5.10b or so. He could probably follow that as well if he had to. We are looking for multipitch and single pitch trad lines mainly. We'd prefer to summit something but we're trying to be realistic as well. Any ideas? PS- I've never climbed at Yosemite so I have no idea whats realistic/worthwhile. Edited March 30, 2010 by summitchaserCJB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
summitchaserCJB Posted March 30, 2010 Author Share Posted March 30, 2010 After looking around I found Royal Arches, Snake Dike, and Central Pillar of Frenzy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackRock Posted March 30, 2010 Share Posted March 30, 2010 So much to climb and so little time. I'd probably focus on anything that is really easy access. There are lots of crags like Church Bowl where you can hammer out a pitch or two if your plans fall apart like Bishops Terrace which is an amazing long pitch of 5.8 handcrack, but cragging doesn't do Yosemite justice.  Manure Pile Buttress has no approach and two super classics: -Nut Cracker 5.8 5p -After Six 5.7 6p  Descent is a quick 20 minute hike back to the parking lot.  Then there is the Five Open Books cliff near the falls and Camp IV which also has no approach and a good number of super classic fun routes. -Commitment -The Surprise -Munginella  You can easily walk back to the base and go for another 3-4 pitch route or you can hit Selaginella on the second tier for a 6-8 pitch day. All the routes are 5.6 to 5.9 or 10- and four stars. Selaginella is actually a pretty nice interesting route too.  Then you've got Central Pillar of Frenzy which is a real classic 5 pitch 5.9 handcrack which is an easy approach and a simply rap back off the Middle Cathedral.  There is also Super Slide which is 'ok' but listed as a super classic 5.8/9 that is really close and of course if you are feeling up to it Sons of Yesterday and Serenity Crack is a must do but clocks in at a pretty solid 5.10.  There are so many routes up there it's hard to list them all. There are lots of bigger routes or others that are a bit further off the trail, but if you don't necessarily have two full days and just want to get a bunch of pitches then I think I've ticked off most of the super easy access classics I can think of. PM if you'd like, I'm sure I have more rattling around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
summitchaserCJB Posted March 30, 2010 Author Share Posted March 30, 2010 Thanks for the info. That central pillar sounds like a lot of fun. My brother wanted to do a one day trip but I talked him up to two. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wallstein Posted March 30, 2010 Share Posted March 30, 2010 Regular route on Higher Cathedral Spire. One of the best summits in Yosemite. Â Arrowhead arete is also very spectacular. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted May 4, 2010 Share Posted May 4, 2010 braille book steck salathe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted May 4, 2010 Share Posted May 4, 2010 also, Â the cragging on El Cap is pretty good... Â little john l or r moby dick sacher cracker even the first pitch of the salathe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted May 4, 2010 Share Posted May 4, 2010 oh...and reeds is great...also lunatic fringe... Â man, i wanna go!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crillz Posted May 4, 2010 Share Posted May 4, 2010 If I were you. In this order:  Nutcracker Reed's Direct Central Pillar of Frenzy Serenity Crack to Sons of Yesterday   Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
summitchaserCJB Posted May 4, 2010 Author Share Posted May 4, 2010 funny this thread is resurrected right when I got back from Yosemite. Here is the TR - blog Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crillz Posted May 4, 2010 Share Posted May 4, 2010 How long did Royal Arches take you? Which way did you descend? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
summitchaserCJB Posted May 4, 2010 Author Share Posted May 4, 2010 We got a minor rope problem after the pendulum and weren't trying to go fast at all but we ascended in 7.5 hours and rappelled the route in probably 1.5 hours. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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