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Chopped bolts


kevbone

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so...back from the yosylum and glad to see the local inmates have been flinging poo at each other like the true hairless monkeys we are :)

 

my attention span is tre-limited and my time precious - anyone capable of condensing htis thread to a paragraph or 2? :)

 

hmmm...i should load up a recent pic of white granite n' golden sunny skies n' climbing in shorts, no? :lmao:

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Not clipping bolts usually means they aren't necessary like most of the bolts on p1 of YW. That said, not clipping them doesn't give you the right to chop them in most instances unless the pro is solid and obvious. But dumbing crags down by bolting them to the lowest common denominator and then saying "just don't clip it" is also about as sad a construct and attitude as I can think of. And let's be clear, the experience available in gyms and most sport climbing venues is only a small part of climbing and you don't reclaim that by simply 'skipping bolts' (or even soloing for that matter).

 

As far as anchors go, the notion of littering trees with webbing at Ozone or DZ/FS is an idiosyncratic throwback and on many lines simply leads to ridiculous topout drudgery that also dumps dirt back down on routes. In almost all cases out at both crags anchors are the way to go. The tops of both crags are also susceptible to erosion and the less traffic above vertical lines at either, the better. In the case of Ozone, given the clientele, you might as well consider the slope above the rock a deathzone. At either end of DZ/FS it's a debatable point, but make no mistake that being above the rock at either crag is a very dangerous affair on par with the Butte.

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anyone capable of condensing htis thread to a paragraph or 2? :)

 

 

Jim screwed up.

Rock Police - Chop. My crag, my rules. What we have here, is a failure to co-mun-i-cate. Kiss & make up. Everybody happy again. Now we can go back to bashing the MAN and all that the "system" represents. (That was my take on it anyway.)
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looks like you guys had some decent weather down in yosemite, ivan. how were the temps?

certainly cooler than the 110 temps of last july :)

 

sunday was glorious - wonderfully warm in the sun and climbed in shorts and tshirt but ended up in shorts and downjacket when i landed in the shade and the wind started howling - full moon and gorgeous night on dinner ledge but monday high clouds led to shrieking winds and by midnight driving cold rain - very happy to resolve the awful stuck rope from dinner ledge before all that shit went down!

 

a buncha driving for only 2 days of clambering but the respite of sun and white granite made it worthwhile :)

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This is so crazy! I can't belive it, I am new to the online climbing message board thing and this is just crazy how rude you guys can be. I hope when I get a chance to climb with some of you bad ass guys there is no drama! Comeon now were all grown ups, a lot this thread sounds like a bunch of kids whining! Seriously ROCK ON!

 

 

No%20Whining%20(2146).jpg

Edited by Corduroy Man
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This is so crazy! I can't belive it, I am new to the online climbing message board thing and this is just crazy how rude you guys can be. I hope when I get a chance to climb with some of you bad ass guys there is no drama! Comeon now were all grown ups, a lot this thread sounds like a bunch of kids whining! Seriously ROCK ON!

 

I don't think anyone takes any of it to serious (or at least I don't). It's a farce right Kirk :poke:

 

As Ivan pointed out at one point we usually don't call each other cock smokers in person :)

 

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