summitchaserCJB Posted March 19, 2010 Share Posted March 19, 2010 (edited) Trip: Index Town Wall - Pisces, Breakfast of Champions, Heart of the Count Date: 3/18/2010 Trip Report: Todd and I had a great day of hard climbing with no falls, weights, or other crap. He sent Pisces, the last pitch of Heart of the Country (5.10) and the GNS. I sent the middle pitch of Heart of the Country (10b) , Pisces, and Breakfast of Champions clean. Overall 5 pitches at or above 5.10a. I'll leave it at that. Thanks for reading. What a day for sending. Todd's got a lot more juicy video/photos. Gear Notes: lots of it Edited March 19, 2010 by summitchaserCJB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pilchuck71 Posted March 19, 2010 Share Posted March 19, 2010 Another freaking Index report? Just Kidding! Looks like a great day out. Nice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sherri Posted March 19, 2010 Share Posted March 19, 2010 Never get tired of seeing those Index cracks. Too bad we can't figure out a way to use all these Index TR's to generate some $$ for the cause. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crillz Posted March 19, 2010 Share Posted March 19, 2010 Above 5.10a? Hmmmm. Nonetheless, thanks for the stoke! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
summitchaserCJB Posted March 19, 2010 Author Share Posted March 19, 2010 umm..whats to hmm at. If anything I should say 5.10a or above. My bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Good2Go Posted March 19, 2010 Share Posted March 19, 2010 The issue was that none of the routes you mentioned are above 10a. Personally, I liked the pics and stoke, so thanks for posting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
summitchaserCJB Posted March 19, 2010 Author Share Posted March 19, 2010 (edited) 5.10b heart of the country (according to Rock Climbing Washington) Edited March 19, 2010 by summitchaserCJB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Good2Go Posted March 19, 2010 Share Posted March 19, 2010 That book is notoriously incorrect about a lot of things, including grades. I'm sure others will chime in if they disagree, but consensus is that HotC is 10a. Not trying to diminish your accomplishment btw. Was a very challenging climb for me when I was first working it. Nice send. Now, go get on Rattletale and Sagittarius and report back when you've fired em. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
summitchaserCJB Posted March 19, 2010 Author Share Posted March 19, 2010 I know the grade is disputed for sure. I think Breakfast is the hardest thing I did yesterday but HOTC is hard as well. I just need a number 5 for Sag but it is definitely on the list. I don't know Rattletale but I'm looking it up now. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
summitchaserCJB Posted March 19, 2010 Author Share Posted March 19, 2010 Just to add some more stoke. The pitch after the 5.10a/b pitch of HOTC (the one everyone does) is a nice 5.10 overhanging crack that not as many people do. It is definitely worth it. It is possible to do, from the ground up, all of GM and the last half of HOTC, in one huge monster pitch with a 60 m rope. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Good2Go Posted March 19, 2010 Share Posted March 19, 2010 You don't need a 5 for Sag. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
summitchaserCJB Posted March 19, 2010 Author Share Posted March 19, 2010 If you want to protect the chimney. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sherri Posted March 19, 2010 Share Posted March 19, 2010 Rattletale Take a couple #2's and #3's. And tape your wrists if you don't want folks suspecting that you're a cutter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Good2Go Posted March 19, 2010 Share Posted March 19, 2010 The chimney is really secure at the bottom and there's a fixed cam right where you need it. Go get it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crillz Posted March 19, 2010 Share Posted March 19, 2010 Didn't mean to be a jerk. I like looking at the pics. Fixed #5 up high? You still might want a cam you can walk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
summitchaserCJB Posted March 19, 2010 Author Share Posted March 19, 2010 No worries Crillz. Just a problem with guidebook discrepancy. I agree about the walking cam. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Good2Go Posted March 19, 2010 Share Posted March 19, 2010 Not to be a beta sprayer, but I'd recommend 4 #2s and 1 #3 for the onsite attempt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
summitchaserCJB Posted March 19, 2010 Author Share Posted March 19, 2010 noted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCramer Posted March 19, 2010 Share Posted March 19, 2010 More to consider..... P1 Godzilla 5.9 P2 Gold bar Girls 5.9+ (if too dirty do p2 City Park) P3 Klaus Von Bulow 5.10b (short crux at the start) TR p3 J Gardens 5.11 fingers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
summitchaserCJB Posted March 19, 2010 Author Share Posted March 19, 2010 Godzilla -check Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete_H Posted March 19, 2010 Share Posted March 19, 2010 Princely to Beek Beek Beek - 5.9, but sorta 5.9+ish at the start Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric8 Posted March 19, 2010 Share Posted March 19, 2010 Klaus is every bit the index 10b... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
summitchaserCJB Posted March 19, 2010 Author Share Posted March 19, 2010 Princely- Check Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boadman Posted March 19, 2010 Share Posted March 19, 2010 Not to be a beta sprayer, but I'd recommend 4 #2s and 1 #3 for the onsite attempt. Spraying bad beta is even worse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Good2Go Posted March 20, 2010 Share Posted March 20, 2010 It was only a recommendation, and I only contributed it in response to Sherri's post related to the same topic. What I spec'd is exactly what I use for the pitch, which I've climbed about 5 times in the past two years. What's your beef Choadman, too much gear or too little? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.