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jesselillis

Red Rocks, NV- beta solicitation

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Heading to Red Rocks with a couple friends, looking for beta of all nature.

Group of 3, climbing abilities range up to leading .10 trad/.11 sport.

Looking for sport crags, classic trad climbs (bear in mind, group of 3), climbs that fit the season, camping spots, local eateries, off-day recommended activities, closest free internet, and any other experience/wisdom you care to share.

Thanks

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Search for TRs on this site and you'll find some good info and people to pm for detailed beta.

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If you have 70 meter ropes, olive oil (5.7) has good ledges for all of the belays and was quite fun. Also, we did the great red book as a party of three, and although the first belay does not have a great stance, it still accommodated everyone reasonably well due to its fat bolts and chains.

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Avoid stalag 13 and stay at a 5-10 yr old casino. Do at least one long multipitch far up a canyon. Take headlamps and walkout in the moonlight. Rocco's NY Italian style deli at buffalo and charleston. Buy 64 oz sodas on your way back into town. Look for water machines in front of grocery stores. Don't go north of the Stratosphere after dark. Take decent water up to your room. Walk in before it gets hot.

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Take headlamps and walkout in the moonlight.

 

Definite must-do. :tup:

(just don't forget to call in for a late-exit permit. The $125 fine kind of ruins the magic.)

 

Whole Foods on Charleston has free internet.

 

Stash your pack well and don't leave valuables in it.

 

Check the forecast frequently and take heed. Things can get ugly there in a hurry, especially if the winds kick up.

 

Take lots of photos and post a TR.

 

 

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Check the forecast frequently and take weed.

 

This is how I misread your post out of the corner of your eye. More of a comment on my fuzzy vision than anything you're likely to say :laf:

 

Excellent beta all around. With a party of three, think about double ropes and autoblocking devices, get both those followers moving at the same time. The sport climbing is good stuff, but it's the long routes that are the most amazing.

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With a party of three, think about double ropes and autoblocking devices, get both those followers moving at the same time. The sport climbing is good stuff, but it's the long routes that are the most amazing.

 

^^^Word^^^.

 

Tie your tent down.

Don't speed in the camp ground.

A guidebook is prolly a good call.

Get the extra insurance on your rental car that way you can rally on the way to Black Velvet canyon.

There's free wifi by the coffee place - by BJ's grille across from Red Rock Casin-yo.

That pizza place by Albertson's is pretty good.

Booze is cheaper in vegas.

When driving on the loop road - if you drive slow, stay to the right so we can pass you.

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Dont waste your time on the single pitch sport stuff, the trad routes are where its at esp the mulitpitch routes like frogland, dark shadows, geronimo, johnny vegas. Getting into higher grades, black orpheus, bulah's book, refried brains, fridgeraire buttress, Y2K, ginger cracks, power failure, all good. No reason 3 climbers cant travel as fast as 2 climbers on most routes so dont let that stop you.

 

Coffee bean has free wifi

 

 

 

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Any suggestions for inexpensive (yet still respectable) hotels?

 

I stayed at Arizona Charlies 3 or 4 years ago for $35/night. Very nice hotel for the price, just off Charleston on the way out of town towards the canyon. Also stayed at Wild Wild West for the same, but that hotel is a bit more dumpy (and further from the climbing). But this info is probably out of date. Any more recent beta on good hotel deals?

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I stayed at Arizona Charlie's a couple times in the last few years. Still a decent place for the price. I'd recommend Suncoast Casino(near Whole Foods on Charleston); a bit pricier but way nicer and better location. Rooms start at $49: suncoast room rates

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Skip Red Rocks altogether and hit some of North Americas's best limestone. Most of it is close to Vegas. Ask the employees at the gear shop for details. Sharma called Vegas's Clark mountain the best crag on earth. If your a newbie You'll also find Verdon quality 5.8 pocket routes at Mt. Charleston or 5.14b routes (40 minutes from the strip and climbable 11 months a year). One of the employees at the shop told me they hadn't climbed at red rocks in two years and said that some of the other locals were in the same boat.

I've found package deals that have accomodations on the strip for around 32 bucks a night. A full service casino on the strip gives many ammenities that the stuff off the strip can't even come close to. If you hit a freeway on ramp like Sahara AVE,the access from the strip is super convinient. Driving to Vegas is more expensive than flying and the rental car rates in Vegas are some of the cheapest in the country.

 

Have fun! And save the nine dollar steak and lobster dinner deal up at Fremont street untill after you redpoint your project!

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Bivy up the canyons (Eagle wall area is great). Best accommodations in town.

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What they said, plus:

 

Some of the best food and entertainment in the world is in Vegas. You must prioritize with your limited rest days (which likely will not be that restful).

 

Stay in a cheap place but visit the classic high end casinos for full entertainment value. Play only blackjack and craps for the best odds (and sports if you think you are astute), run for your lives from slots, roulette and other brain dead games (unless the clientele is enticing enough). Buy a condo with your winnings due to the market crash down there. Go to Spearmint Rhino and take plenty of small bills.

 

Oh and do some climbing! Epinephrine after an all nighter in the casinos is full value.

 

Place a bet for me on how many years it takes for Sharma's 15b to be repeated on Charleston (or is it Clark) (i'll say 3 years). If Adam Ondra isn't excluded, cut the time in half.

 

Have fun!

Edited by matt_warfield

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So which hotel(s) have the best value/quality all you can eat gourmet buffet value?

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So which hotel(s) have the best value/quality all you can eat gourmet buffet value?
I've found you really need to shop around as the deals seem to be hit & miss. Also, I've had better luck using a service like Travelocity vs calling the hotels direct. Arizona Charlies is a bit of a dump but much closer to RR than the Strip and cheap. Last time I was there I got a room at the Flamingo Hilton for less than $50/nt, taxes included.

 

BTW, Gourmet Buffet is an OXYMORON!

 

Put it ALL on black, let it ride, winner winner, chicken dinner...

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I am not into vegas so i have stayed at the campground. not the best but overall but pretty mellow and right next to the park.

 

Also call for late exit permits on longer climbs

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My buddy and I just booked a trip down there for next month. With 2 airline tickets, accommodations for two for 7 nights at the excalibur (older but still on the strip), and a rental car for the week it was 1060 total. I don't mind camping but the idea of sleeping in a bed and having a shower are fairly appealing. Plus I don't have to pack my tent and shit.

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