Buckaroo Posted March 8, 2010 Share Posted March 8, 2010 Trip: Colonial - Northwest Couloir? Date: 3/6/2010 Trip Report: Motivated by THIS TR, decided to take the one nice weather day Saturday and see how far I could get on the North face of Colonial. Didn't really expect to summit with only one day to climb, just wanted a good recon. 2 hrs through the forest, 1 hr on a dead-end detour on the lower cliffs, high point of 6700' by 2:45. Sketchy descent around a bunch of cliffs and through some really sun softened snow, back to the lower cirque by dark. Fun de-proaching through the forest in total darkness. Got an overdue weapons upgrade, some new Petzl Dartwin Sidelocks, swheet. The approach ice gulleys, the right one looked the best, WI3 but couldn't get to the base of it because of vertical cliffs, ended up going up a avalanche gully. The approach gully,(lower left) really nice styrofoam with a couple of 25' WI3/4 steps. Looking down the scoured approach gully, perfect climbing conditions. From the base of the right side of the N face, took the gully at center, starting with a 75' WI3/4 step(it's centered in the pic but not real clear), this is one gully to the right of what Beau and Geoff did. Think it's the NW Face/Couloir but not sure. Getting closer to the ice step. Looking up the 75' ice step. Climbed this up and down after turning around just above here. From the high point at 6700' above the first ice step. At least a full pitch of vertical ice ahead. So not sure if this is the Kloke route cuz it's not in the description. 2:30 was my turnaround time, tried traversing from here but it was soft 75deg snow and went out and back a bit and it seemed like avalanche potential so opted for the downclimb of the 75' step. From the road on Sunday, this face was still in good condition on Mar 6, plenty of plastic alpine water ice and hard snow in the gullies. Gear Notes: Upgraded weapons systems, new Petzl Dartwins to compliment the Cobras. one mini bic lighter with 3/4 of the fuel emptied out to save weight. Approach Notes: 2 hrs of steep shwack through the forest, still a lot of snow cover in the slide alder lower bowl. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne Posted March 8, 2010 Share Posted March 8, 2010 (edited) Nice! I think that is the Kellogg/Aylward line? Splitshot Edited March 8, 2010 by wayne1112 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pilchuck71 Posted March 8, 2010 Share Posted March 8, 2010 Nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed_Hobbick Posted March 8, 2010 Share Posted March 8, 2010 (edited) Absolute sickness!!! Did you actually use the lighter? What time did your alarm "go off" Edited March 8, 2010 by Ed_Hobbick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirtyleaf Posted March 8, 2010 Share Posted March 8, 2010 Awesome! That avalanche gulley kinda sucks. NICE RECON! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed_Hobbick Posted March 8, 2010 Share Posted March 8, 2010 Yeah, Nice "Recon" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidk Posted March 9, 2010 Share Posted March 9, 2010 Nice! I think that is the Kellogg/Aylward line? Splitshot Bingo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckaroo Posted March 9, 2010 Author Share Posted March 9, 2010 Nice! I think that is the Kellogg/Aylward line? Splitshot Yeah, after reading their TR, that's it. Should have started out through the forest in the dark, might have made it. Oh well, always time for a rematch. The ice was just so plastic the whole way, perfect for soloing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckaroo Posted March 9, 2010 Author Share Posted March 9, 2010 Awesome! That avalanche gulley kinda sucks. NICE RECON! Yeah, after screwing around on the right side of the start of the WI3 cascade approach it looked like the left side would have went. Anything is probably safer than that avalanche gully, about 1/2 the upper face funnels through there. The snow was hella firm though from all the scouring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckaroo Posted March 9, 2010 Author Share Posted March 9, 2010 Absolute sickness!!! Did you actually use the lighter? What time did your alarm "go off" Stopped a couple of time to rest in the forest, turned the headlamp off and looking at the stars through the trees. Get to thinking... if the headlamp goes out, there's always the lighter, about all you could do would be to look for a flat place to bivy until daybreak. Alarm about 5:00, trailhead about 6:00. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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