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Tom_Sjolseth

first ascent [TR] Assassin Spire - NW Face (IV, WI4+) FA

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Very impressive, nicely written, and beautiful photos!

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We'd love to have this in the Northwest Mountaineering Journal this year in one form or another. One of us will contact you about that.

Rad

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@Darin.. there are probably other higher unclimbed points out there (possibly a sub-summit of 7FJ, or one of Jack's false summits), but this one has got to be the toughest. I'm not sure of the prominence on Assassin Spire, but I believe the map to be in error as it only lists 160' of prominence for Assassin Spire. I believe there to be over 300' of prominence, but we'll probably never know for sure.

 

@Steve.. very cool! We were equally surprised to see you I'm sure.

 

@JoshK.. surprisingly we didn't see or hear that hanging glacier drop a single thing the entire time we were in there (even at camp). You wouldn't see me climbing that thing though, especially at WI6..

 

@Rad.. I'd be glad to contribute this to the NWMJ.

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What a great TR! Thanks for posting this up. Revives my lust for seeking out this kind of thing. Glad you had a good time, and great pictures. :)

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Uhh. who wants to get the FA on this beast.

IMG_2075_resize.JPG

 

Also, congrats on an truly amazing climb!

 

My girlfriend directly forbid me to :cry:

 

Come and get it Canadians!!

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If anyone is considering climbing the hanging glacier itself, it is overhanging by at least 10 degrees (more like 20). Go get it!

 

@Gene.. a combination of dreaming, Scurlock Photos, and a few hops. :brew:

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Wow...this really puts my own climbing into perspective, and drops the ego a notch as well.

Makes me want to push it a little harder.

Super impressive.

Nicely done!

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Wow...this really puts my own climbing into perspective, and drops the ego a notch as well.

Makes me want to push it a little harder.

Super impressive.

Nicely done!

 

Exactly!

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Wow, just wow. You guys picked a real good one. Real awesome job. Way jealous over here :)

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Impressive piece of pioneering and style guys. I am way psyched for you Tom.

 

I'd be curious to know the last time the Cascades saw a FA of an unclimbed peak. I'm sure it's been some time. Does anyone know?

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If anyone is considering climbing the hanging glacier itself, it is overhanging by at least 10 degrees (more like 20). Go get it!

 

 

Tom: When we were up there, we climbed the gulley to the left of the hanging glacier (Scott and crew made it up to the notch between Assassin and Lincoln by this route). About halfway up that gulley, the hanging glacier calved off a huge piece and shook the whole peak. After I cleaned my shorts out, my enthusiasm was somewhat diminished, but Dallas was still gung-ho. Scott had proposed a name for the glacier, but I forget what it was. (Probably something akin to the Deathtrap Glacier)

Edited by Trent

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Great job guys! I knew it was only a matter of time before somebody knocked this off, of course I was hoping it was going to be me after one attempt in summer with Dallas Kloke and Trent and another last May with A2THK. We figured it would probably only be possible as a winter or early spring climb. Last May we had a look at your gully and wondered if it would go, it looked pretty rotten then. As Trent mentioned, we made it to top of the notch between Lincoln and Assassin, we were calling that glacier the Hidden Dragon due to all the fire it was spitting out both times I was in there. Great pictures and a major Cascades coup, you guys makes us proud.

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Another view of the beast taken a couple of weeks ago on a ski in the area:

 

IMG_4443-1.JPG

 

Scott and Steve tried to convince me that this climb would be a good idea. At least now I won't have to make excuses anymore- Well done gents!

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Awesome job guys! Way to get after it! Damn, Tom...I leave to go skiing for a week and look what happens...congrats!

 

Funny it's not named Wilkes-Booth Peak, eh?

 

Bravo, good chaps!

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