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wayne

first ascent [TR] FA-Black Spider-Center Drip-Mt Hood 3/6/201

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Trip: Mt Hood - FA-Center Drip-Black Spider

 

Date: 3/6/2010

 

Trip Report:

 

[video:vimeo]9993722

 

Over the last 23 or so years, I developed an interest (read: obsession) with the ice climbs up an obscure volcanic wall on the East Face of mt Hood. I first viewed the face while doing a solo ski traverse around the upper Mt. Hood in 1987. Jeff Thomas’ Oregon High book had some questions looking for any information on the Eiger like wall. The hook was very set, as it was basically untouched and offered 6-10 big climbs around 1000' feet tall. Without any info, I started a campaign of exploration up its many ice routes with great results. Steve Elder and I did the first ascent of the main wall in feb-94, followed by a couple other routes that were nothing less than astounding alpine climbs of the highest order. Then I began a long series of attempts on the “Center Drip”‘ that took the best line on the entire face. Finding never-ending setbacks with weather and conditions, my patience wore thin after more than a dozen attempts. It finally came together this March with reports of Ice on the wall from 2 great sources. My local Pullman partner , Beau- accompanied me on our successful bid. The climb went so very well.We did it in blocks with 4 total pitches , the final crux one was a full 60 m of airy positioning. The route was an instant classic and deserves many ascents in the future. Besides incredible ambience, It is a very doable route as well.We had a great time on this wonderful classic climb. Enjoy the pictures and video, It felt really great to wrap up such a project. I will do a blow-by blow if wanted and I must promote the new Climbing Guide to Mt. Hood expected out this fall!

As always, looking forward to your trip report, Wayne P1000277.JPG

 

Black_Spider_in_topo_-_Copy.jpg

 

P1000286.JPG

My 38th ice pitch this season.

 

P1010703.jpg

 

P1010717.JPG

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nice, so what did everyone else do this weekend? :lmao:

 

glad you nailed it in time for the book!

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so, now you've nailed it, what are you saying are the main indications the wall's in likely shape?

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:rocken: very, very cool. awesome to see such commitment and perseverance finally come to fruition! we were up on the spur on sat.. maybe your snowshoe tracks we saw down lower? looks like you were up on it well before we got very high on the spur.

 

congratulations on a job well done!!!!

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Nope , it is on the video as "unclimbed". I am leaving for your generation.

 

P1010665.jpg

 

Dont make us Washingtonians poach all of your good lines!

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Nope , it is on the video as "unclimbed". I am leaving for your generation.

 

Sorry I wasn't able to read it straight from the video.

 

Maybe in a few years when I know what I am doing, I will give it a shot! Such a beautiful route you put up. Congrats!

 

-Mark

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Nope , it is on the video as "unclimbed". I am leaving for your generation.

quitter!!! :)

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Until I read your trip report, I thought it was pretty cool that I put first tracks up the West Crater Rim on Saturday :lmao: No seriously, congrats on a sweeeeet climb!

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Amazing! Looks like such an awesome climb. What time did you top out? I was up on Cooper Spur and ran into Water. It's too bad we didn't bump into you guys.

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Amazing! Looks like such an awesome climb. What time did you top out? I was up on Cooper Spur and ran into Water. It's too bad we didn't bump into you guys.

Thanks, we were up at 5 am from our 8000' camp and summited at 10 am. Waiting to thank the guy who gave us an apple at the summit.

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Arach is so fat all the way. A direct finish is begging for your tools. Look for the window guys, as long as it doesnt get too warm

 

BlackSpiderTopo.jpg

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Whats the pro like? Screws, pins, nuts? Too bad weather rolled in...

 

Congrats on finally getting the line done. A few of us were gunning for the same route on Thurs and bailed because we didn't like the snow stability.

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Congrats on your climb! Looks impressive. What camera are you using?

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Congratulations Wayne !!

 

Thanks for the inspiration, and thanks for all your help with the Guide.

 

 

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Ditto on the congrats Wayne, sweet stuff. Nice to see an obsession actually not get someone arrested for once... :lmao: and it looks like the freezing level is actually dropping so it's gonna be there more than 15 min!

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