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Toast

Practice makes perfect

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quote:

Originally posted by thelawgoddess:

...it's going to be fucking wet fucking eveywhere this fucking weekend. (not that i'm fucking letting that affect my fucking mood.)

My point exactly. Daylight is short and the weather is less than predictable. I've been trying to think of a way to work on anchor systems and mechanics without having to drive an hour out of town... which basically limits you to a weekend day... which is tough to schedule if the probability is high that that you're gonna get soaked.

 

For the sake of efficiency, my suggestion would be to narrow the scope and run a focused clinic on complex anchor systems... an equalized anchor set up with cordalette, quick efficient methods of setting anchors in opposition for an omni, hybrids of the two and a little discussion of why and when you'd do so.

 

That's pretty basic, but it gets a little more complex when you add in handoff from a hanging belay. I was a little slow on the uptake of my first hanging belay, and I'd like to get straight where I clip in and what I can unclip when without having the prospect of a 300' drop below me messin' with my concentration. Basically I'd like to work out these mechanics in advance in a safe environment... preferably with a beer within reach.

 

In my mind, what I've just described is enough for about a two hour clinic. With that foundation, I'd be a little more comfortable picking a weekend to climb and put that knowledge into action on real rock. This could be another clinic or a real climb.

 

Lambone, I just noticed your last post. I'm up for that as well, but I think we'd get more out of it if we got some of the mechanics greased on the ground. I like the idea of scheduling this before one of the Pub Clubs and heading down for a beer with the rest of the crew after. Just my $0.02

 

[ 11-07-2002, 05:04 PM: Message edited by: Toast ]

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If you guys don't mind driving to T-Town, Spire Rock is hard to beat for going over that stuff on a man made structure. You can also lower people off the side and rig z-pulleys, construct hanging belays and do hand-offs. I'd be in for that [smile]

 

[ 11-07-2002, 05:07 PM: Message edited by: Figger Eight ]

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quote:

Originally posted by Toast:

[QBLambone, I just noticed your last post. I'm up for that as well, but I think we'd get more out of it if we got some of the mechanics greased on the ground. I like the idea of scheduling this before one of the Pub Clubs and heading down for a beer with the rest of the crew after. Just my $0.02[/QB]

Just let me know and I'll be there.

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BUT I LIVE IN OREGON!!! [Frown] I would realy like to see a hanging belay in action. I would love to see a prtaledge set up as well and I want to learn to aid and well... BRING IT ON [big Grin] I am however a slow learner [Razz] and I am still not comfortable placing cams and nuts. JEEZ! how long until spring??? Although I am happy to report that I have had alot of help over comming my rope management issues and I am doing much better now [smile] (Figger Eight, you know what I am talking about [big Grin] )

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quote:

Originally posted by Dru:

Setting up anchors in your furniture is a great skill which can be applied both to whiling away tentbound days in the mountains, and bedroom antics involving ropes

i wasn't saying having a private rope-up with your furnishings isn't a bad thing; i'd just personally rather be outside. and dru, there are MUCH more interesting things to do in the bedroom with ropes than setting up anchors. [Wink]

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quote:

Originally posted by thelawgoddess:

quote:

Originally posted by Lambone:

VW is currently running a series of clinics on lots of different stuff. check it out.

fyi: $5/clinic at the magnolia location; free in redmond.

More like $40 for a non-member... besides, you can't drink beer there.

 

I dunno, maybe it was a lame idea. I do like the idea of tying thelawgoddess up in her bedroom [laf]

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Toast, the private classes, and 1 hour clinics are two different things. Clinics are only $5.

 

From your original post I am not sure if you were suggesting that someone hold clinics, or that you were planning to give clinics, or you were looking for volounteer instructors...or what? Anyway free clinics are a great idea, it's just a matter of finding someone willing to give up their free time teaching them...

 

[ 11-07-2002, 12:58 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

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quote:

Originally posted by Muffy The Wanker Sprayer:

"Your gaper-fu is no match for my Southern Filipino Tiger Spray-fu!"

-Figger Eight

[laf][laf][laf]

 

I love that! You two must have grown up watching bad kung fu movies too [big Grin]

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quote:

Originally posted by Muffy The Wanker Sprayer:

BUT I LIVE IN OREGON!!!
[Frown]
I would realy like to see a hanging belay in action. I would love to see a prtaledge set up as well and I want to learn to aid and well... BRING IT ON
[big Grin]
I am however a slow learner
[Razz]
and I am still not comfortable placing cams and nuts. JEEZ! how long until spring??? Although I am happy to report that I have had alot of help over comming my rope management issues and I am doing much better now
[smile]
(Figger Eight, you know what I am talking about
[big Grin]
)

Again, time to move to Washington.

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quote:

Originally posted by Muffy The Wanker Sprayer:

BUT I LIVE IN OREGON!!!
[Frown]
I would realy like to see a hanging belay in action. I would love to see a prtaledge set up as well and I want to learn to aid and well... BRING IT ON
[big Grin]
I am however a slow learner
[Razz]
and I am still not comfortable placing cams and nuts. JEEZ! how long until spring??? Although I am happy to report that I have had alot of help over comming my rope management issues and I am doing much better now
[smile]
(Figger Eight, you know what I am talking about
[big Grin]
)

Sounds to me like you just need more climbing.

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quote:

Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman:

quote:

Originally posted by Muffy The Wanker Sprayer:

BUT I LIVE IN OREGON!!!
[Frown]
I would realy like to see a hanging belay in action. I would love to see a prtaledge set up as well and I want to learn to aid and well... BRING IT ON
[big Grin]
I am however a slow learner
[Razz]
and I am still not comfortable placing cams and nuts. JEEZ! how long until spring??? Although I am happy to report that I have had alot of help over comming my rope management issues and I am doing much better now
[smile]
(Figger Eight, you know what I am talking about
[big Grin]
)

Sounds to me like you just need more climbing.

Good point, Ray. There is no substitute for just getting out there and placing gear. Personally, I equalized the posts on my deck railing about 10 different ways after reading John Long's books then went out and set up equalized anchors on the ground. After that it seemed to make sense and lots of climbing reinforces it.

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quote:

Originally posted by Lambone:

Just let me know and I'll be there.

Lambone, I'm in. Sounded like Leejams is, TLG might be, and SK could be if she transported her butt up here [Razz]

 

How about we plan to do this next Saturday down at Spire Rock as Figger8 suggests? I've never been there, but I like the idea that thing is suited for a setting up a hanging belay and working the transfer.

 

Who's in?

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Why not Index? At the base of Toxic Shock are several cracks that reach the ground and the ledge at the half way point has a bomber ancher. Easily aided too!

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I wont be home till around mid december but if people are still interested I would love to give an anchoring or self rescue clinic for those interested. I have spent the last 6 months teaching and guiding in Yosemite and have learnt alot from some of the senior guides. I wont be working this winter so I will have plenty of free time. And I only live 30 minutes from index. Rain or Shine there is plenty of places to teach there.

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I would be up for either place. Been to spire rock, slippery as snot when wet. Never been to index as of yet. From seattle I would guess about the same drive to each area. Both places have beer that us newbies could pitch in and buy the guys with the rack and experience. Lets see I wonder if it counts that I have a cordelette and know how to use it, at least standing on the ground??

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There are pros and cons to both places (I've instructed at both)...

 

Index: you're climbing actual routes on actual rock. The rock might be drier, and shit...it's at Index, not Parkland. When the instruction is completed, people can dink around at a real climbing area. However, depending on the instructor/student ratio, effective teaching of more involved scenarios might be better elsewhere.

 

Spire Rock: made specifically for larger groups. It is slicker than snot when wet though, but there are easy enough routes where it doesn't matter. There are cracks from offwidths to thin fingers you can play around on, and practicing gear placement on lead is less intimidating knowing there is ankle deep gravel on the ground if you blow it.

 

I guess it depends on how many people show. I might suggest Spire for a group larger than 5 or 6. If it's smaller, Index would be the place to go. My 2 cents at least.

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I'd prefer real cracks over concrete, and woods where my new puppy can romp around.

 

How about index, toxic shock area is cool.

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Another variation on indoor anchors at home is using the crack between an open door (hinge side) and the door frame for anchors. Stoppers work reasonably well and add a vertical component (both directions) to the system. (Just don't hang on them or you'll damage the woodwork.) Cams can work between pickets and railings on decks if the spacing is small enough.

 

Spire Rock would even be better, if it's dry and close enough to home.

 

[ 11-12-2002, 10:50 AM: Message edited by: Thinker ]

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quote:

Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman:

quote:

Originally posted by Lambone:

woods where my new puppy can romp around.


My dog is aggro
[Mad]
and will attack other dogs
[Roll Eyes]
including yours.

dood I've seen your puppy...my puppy will kick your puppies ass! [big Grin] Bring it punk... [sNAFFLEHOUND]

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