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KingsMM

How to start to place own Pro and lead trad

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I would like to start to lead trad routes. I have lead a few bolted climbs at smith rock. How should start to learn it. Do i need to clean for someone? I don't know anyone i could do that for.

Can i get a book on it. Or do you think someone needs to teach me. Basicly i want info. on how to learn. any comments are helpful.

thanks

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Find a good mentor and learn as much as you can from them. Clean lots of routes learning the different gear placements. Start on easy climbs placing lots of pro.

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quote:

Originally posted by Highlander:

Find a good mentor and learn as much as you can from them. Clean lots of routes learning the different gear placements. Start on easy climbs placing lots of pro.

I'll second that and add that books help and practice as much as possible at placing gear while on the ground. Starting with easy routes where there are really good stances to place gear from is key for those beginning trad leads.

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Get into some easy aid climbing--you'll learn to place pro like a pro in no time.

 

Also, always ignore any advice the way-too-verbose lawgoddess gives you [Wink] .

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drop some acid and lead Godzilla. I personally know one dude who did this (first lead) with a set of nuts and he still lives from what I hear.

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quote:

Originally posted by Chepe:

drop some acid and lead Godzilla. I personally know one dude who did this (first lead) with a set of nuts and he still lives from what I hear.

yeah crazy jamie!!!!!!

 

i dunno if he is still alive....anyone seen him at index recently???

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quote:

Originally posted by Chepe:

drop some acid and lead Godzilla. I personally know one dude who did this (first lead) with a set of nuts and he still lives from what I hear.

I'm shocked you would post such irresponsible advice to a beginning leader. What's next free soloing? [laf][Wink][Wazzup]

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anyone around portland that could i could clean for. I usally go with my brother but we are both just learning. I have gone to brouten bluff and crown point. but all were TR. [Frown] anyone intrested? [Confused]

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You can start by getting some gear, mainly nuts and hexes, and placing gear on top rope. Place as much pro as possible. Read J. Long's Climbing Anchors, it's great. Be careful, have fun.

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Perhaps this is the forum that Anna should be reading right now. With all this good advice, it makes sense that she should talk to the ones who posted the recomendations.

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