KingsMM Posted October 16, 2002 Share Posted October 16, 2002 I would like to start to lead trad routes. I have lead a few bolted climbs at smith rock. How should start to learn it. Do i need to clean for someone? I don't know anyone i could do that for. Can i get a book on it. Or do you think someone needs to teach me. Basicly i want info. on how to learn. any comments are helpful. thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Highlander Posted October 16, 2002 Share Posted October 16, 2002 Find a good mentor and learn as much as you can from them. Clean lots of routes learning the different gear placements. Start on easy climbs placing lots of pro. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted October 16, 2002 Share Posted October 16, 2002 a good way to start learning is by following someone who is good at placing gear, checking out their placements and cleaning the route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paco Posted October 16, 2002 Share Posted October 16, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Highlander: Find a good mentor and learn as much as you can from them. Clean lots of routes learning the different gear placements. Start on easy climbs placing lots of pro. I'll second that and add that books help and practice as much as possible at placing gear while on the ground. Starting with easy routes where there are really good stances to place gear from is key for those beginning trad leads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgod Posted October 16, 2002 Share Posted October 16, 2002 Get into some easy aid climbing--you'll learn to place pro like a pro in no time. Â Also, always ignore any advice the way-too-verbose lawgoddess gives you . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chepe Posted October 16, 2002 Share Posted October 16, 2002 drop some acid and lead Godzilla. I personally know one dude who did this (first lead) with a set of nuts and he still lives from what I hear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted October 16, 2002 Share Posted October 16, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Chepe: drop some acid and lead Godzilla. I personally know one dude who did this (first lead) with a set of nuts and he still lives from what I hear. yeah crazy jamie!!!!!! Â i dunno if he is still alive....anyone seen him at index recently??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted October 16, 2002 Share Posted October 16, 2002 "Blotter is my spotter" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted October 16, 2002 Share Posted October 16, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Chepe: drop some acid and lead Godzilla. I personally know one dude who did this (first lead) with a set of nuts and he still lives from what I hear. I'm shocked you would post such irresponsible advice to a beginning leader. What's next free soloing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KingsMM Posted October 17, 2002 Author Share Posted October 17, 2002 anyone around portland that could i could clean for. I usally go with my brother but we are both just learning. I have gone to brouten bluff and crown point. but all were TR. anyone intrested? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave_Schuldt Posted October 17, 2002 Share Posted October 17, 2002 If you can find someone to practice aid climbing with you can lead aid on top rope. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotch-a-Go-Go Posted October 18, 2002 Share Posted October 18, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Dru: "Blotter is my spotter" : Snark! Â So that's what that little gerbil is chewing on! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bolt_clipper Posted November 2, 2002 Share Posted November 2, 2002 You can start by getting some gear, mainly nuts and hexes, and placing gear on top rope. Place as much pro as possible. Read J. Long's Climbing Anchors, it's great. Be careful, have fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr._Chips Posted November 2, 2002 Share Posted November 2, 2002 Perhaps this is the forum that Anna should be reading right now. With all this good advice, it makes sense that she should talk to the ones who posted the recomendations. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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