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Toast

Easy routes for beginning trad lead

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quote:

Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman:

quote:

Originally posted by Toast:

How about a specific route name at the Great Northern Slab? I've seen a topo with about a bazzillion routes criss crossing all over it.

Number 87

 

-
Also 84 to 91 to 89 is a good 'un

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quote:

Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman:

8 Mile buttress 11worth

...

Icicle Buttress R&D 11worth

Castle Rock Midway 11worth

Castle Rock Saber 11worth

...


Tony (aka: Toast): I wish we would have done some of these when we were over there a couple weeks ago? Too many people and to much [big Drink] and not enough climbing. Maybe next time (...maybe next weekend). I'll email you.

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I have to agree with lambone, follow saber before you lead it, just so you get the first couple moves down. i pussed out the second time 'cause i was still a little sketch about it... [Frown]

if ya ever need a partner i'm learning to lead on trad as well.. [big Drink]

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quote:

Originally posted by Lambone:

Toast,

 

Saber is a great one, becarefull on the first little section, I've seen people deck there. I wouldn't recomend Canary, the gear is not exactly straightforward, get some other stuff under your belt first. Vantage and Tieton have some good cracks (you'll want cams), just be sure to sew it up!

Got no cams. Just passive pro till I get the hang of it (and find a job.)

 

Confidential to Erik: My hooters are huge big boy [Eek!][laf][Wazzup]

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quote:

Originally posted by Toast:

My hooters are huge big boy
[Eek!][laf][Wazzup]

I'll belay you up Sabre. Did I mention it's still "Spaghetti-strap Prana tank top" season over there?

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quote:

Originally posted by erik:

toast i will teach you for beer!!!!

 

and if you are a hot chick the lessons are free!!!!!

We should require an 'M' or 'F' in the person's avatar so you know when you are talking to guy or chick. Sorry erik, Toast is a dude. [Frown]

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quote:

Originally posted by IMAM:

Sorry erik, Toast is a dude.
[Frown]

Erik's pretty delirious from all the cold meds he's taking, he might be into man-boobies [big Grin]

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quote:

Originally posted by IMAM:

quote:

Originally posted by erik:

toast i will teach you for beer!!!!

 

and if you are a hot chick the lessons are free!!!!!

We should require an 'M' or 'F' in the person's avatar so you know when you are talking to guy or chick. Sorry erik, Toast is a dude.
[Frown]
I WILL STOP JOKING THEN I GUESS...

 

SHEESHHHH AMATUERS...

 

GREG I GOT MY EYE ON YOU!!!

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Ingallis is a good intro to Alpine rock but I've seen some real clusters up there (the couple who had never rapelled before, then got their rope stuck, the guy that got off route and tried the slabs down and to the right and dislocated his shoulder, the guy that climbed into the greasy dead end in the approach gulley to the East Ridge and couldn't down climb), the woman in tears at the exposure on the top.

 

As an old and not very bold guy I don't want to lecture but I humbly propose that the transition from gym/sport climbing to trad/leading to alpine is one we take too lightly. Toast, as you move from sport to trad consider the consequences of your placements, your anchors, of a fall on a multipitch climb (here's my Self Rescue thread again), of geting off route or over your head, of gear failure, and of your partners. Just because you climb 5.9 at E38 doesn't make Orbit or Outer Space a good choice for your first lead but a lot of people do it.

 

Eric suggested that TR is not the best way to learn to lead and I will agree with him to stand on the ground and work out every sort of placement you can first, then go TR something and practice placing the gear (if you want to make it more realistic, leave 5 feet of slack in the top rope as you climb). The game changes dramatically when you are hanging on by one hand fiddling with your gear with the other and looking down between your feet at the last piece 10 feet below.

 

As you move onto multi pitch climbs start talking to your partner - what happens when I'm over half the rope, can we communicate, can you help me if I fall? A favorite multi pitch climb of mine to take a newbe on is Givler's Crack - the hard move is off the ground and it has all these issues of communication, what to do in an accident, and exposure, yet eases as it gets higher.

 

And I still feel that a mentor, someone who has been climbing for years and is willing work with you as your learn to lead, is a great idea. Toast, you didn't say who you were climbing with but since its you with the new rack I can assume she isn't very experienced either - with an experienced partner at least when you are leading you can count on her belay and advice.

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quote:

Originally posted by fern:

quote:

Originally posted by Dr Flash Amazing:

Probably because there's more to route selection than randomly picking things based on how hard they are, Ms. Snippy.
[Razz]
Sheesh.

I apologize, you are correct. The route name is an extrEEEEMly important factor
[Roll Eyes]
[/QB]

Yeah, the route name is exactly what the Doctor was referring to.

 

There's certainly nothing else to take into account like is the route dirty or clean, is the rock good or bad, is the gear good, is it runout, is it fun or an awkward suffer-fest, does it get a shitload of traffic, does it weave all over the place, etc.

 

Come on, a beginner who obviously is not very familiar with the area is asking for advice. Why respond with some smartass crap about looking at the topo when you could actually help them? Or do you like hearing shit like "look at a topo" when you ask for advice on a good route?

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I am not interested Dr. Flash Amazing. Buzz off.

 

I hope that Toast has fun learning to lead and benefits from the advice on this thread. This board is a valuable resource but is not a replacemnet for reading guidebooks, many of which have star/skull systems to provide exta info about the quality and safety of the climbs. This board is not a replacement for learning to route-find based on reading a topo and assessing the climb from the ground and while you are on it. I don't think you get much more out of collecting a list of route names off the internet than you could get by researching a guidebook. If I am asked "what are some good first leads" my first response will always be "read the guidebook and look for the easy climbs with lots of stars". A more specific question will get a more specific answer.

 

I apologize if I insulted Toast, that was not my intent. Sometimes I fail to check my sarcasm and surliness. That is my problem and not anyone else's.

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freeman.

 

i say this because you do not get the lead head....having rope in your face...and knowing that only lessons the leason learned.

 

if you get good at pretneding then you are good at pretending, if you get good at the real application then you are good.

 

kinda like kayaking...you can roll all day long in a pool...offsides, hand rolls whatever, but once you get into the real world, things are bit more freized and the mock rules do not apply

 

erik

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I agree with Erik. "Practice like you'll play in the game" is what our coach used to tell us. Whatever your end game is (long trad, alpine, whatever), practice on the sharp end is best when it is truly sharp. That is what leading is all about. That is why you start on easy climbs and not at your physical limit. The hardest part for a lot of people is the mental game; that can only be mastered by DOING.

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What Erik said. Also, I can think of no climbs under 5.9 in Washington that require one to hang off one hand while they place pro except sport climbs where you are clipping bolts. Yes, I'm sure they exist, but in any event they would be rare. You gotta spend time above your own hand-placed pro to get used to being above your own hand-placed pro. There is no other way.

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quote:

Originally posted by chucK:

quote:

Originally posted by Toast:

Yeah, but fer what it'd cost to buy a #3 Camalot, I could live on the beach in Mexico for a week
[Wink]

Get real man
[Roll Eyes]
. Do you wanna
CLIMB
or do you wanna just rot on some itchy sand
[sleep]
?

You could do both on this beach.

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"I am not interested Dr. Flash Amazing. Buzz off.

 

...

 

I apologize if I insulted Toast, that was not my intent. Sometimes I fail to check my sarcasm and surliness. That is my problem and not anyone else's."

 

You are not interested, and yet the Doctor's critique has caused you to think about what you say and how you say it, and to (gasp) apologize. Nice.

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quote:

Originally posted by Lambone:

Hey DFA, this thread is about Trad climbing, either get out or shut the hell up
[Moon]
cheers
[big Drink]

[laf]

 

Ha! This is hilarious. DFA tries to help this beginner person out, pisses off Fern, and now you're pissed off because Fern is pissed off that DFA was trying to be helpful. And on this message board, you're pissed about thread drift?

 

Maybe you do need a beer, holmes.

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quote:

Confidential to Erik: My hooters are huge big boy

so is this what I have to do to get a partner around here?? [laf][laf]

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quote:

Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman:

I climbed canary my first time with hexes and stoppers. I took a screamer too
[Eek!]
Not sure the pro was tricky for me
[Confused]

I'm not saying you need cams for canary, although they help...

 

I just thought that the runnuots were a bit long and you had to look around for good placements, above the "airy step" at least. It's not hard climbing, I just wouldn't recomend it as a first lead... [sNAFFLEHOUND]

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