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Corduroy Man

Mescalito, El Capitan, Yosemite!

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Hey cord man it was cool to meet you the other day. I talked with some dude on Saturday that said mescalito felt like C1. I think he said he posts as bigwalling or bringmedeath or something.

 

...good luck!

 

Alex

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I too met cord man at Smith last weekend. He was even wearing corduroy pants! He was one of the most stoked people I've ever met, you can't help getting psyched talking to him. Rock on with your bad self cord man!

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okay - so i reckon i have to accept his existence as a corporeal being :)

 

stoked is great, and you've already been to the valley and seen watcha wanna do - so be sure to take pix and enjoy the crew

 

and if you badger me enough i'm sure there'll be a time my regular folks aren't available and i'd be happy to roadtrip to some decetn aid-destinations (index, liberty bell, smiff, etc)

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I talked with some dude on Saturday that said mescalito felt like C1. I think he said he posts as bigwalling or bringmedeath or something

 

And he's about 24 and has climbed El Cap about twelve times, including pushes. When you're young and on, A3 hooks can feel A1. And Bringme certainly did a bunch of bigwalls before he climbed El Cap, not just an aid climbing class at a climbing gym.

 

Rock On!!!!!!!!

Keep the stoke!!!!!!!

Shred the freshies!!!!!!!

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:lmao:

 

 

what r u laughing at? you've done tons of aid pitches and some smaller big walls and couldn't squirm ur way up the nose... :wave:

 

 

 

 

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The truth is, if you really try to do Mescalito, you'll probably be overwhelmed by the scale and bale after three pitches, or not.

 

Actually the top of p5 more likely. Crossing the Seagull separates the men from the sprayers.

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:lmao:

 

 

what r u laughing at? you've done tons of aid pitches and some smaller big walls and couldn't squirm ur way up the nose... :wave:

 

 

 

mayhap exactly what i was laughing about? :)

 

doesn't sound like rock-on is goign during the valley's saharan days though...

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You would get much better bang for your buck by doing long routs out at index (upper town wall). It is a bit of a drive for a weekend but that is where I would go. Practice even in marginal conditions. May in the valley can be very like so be prepared, even the end of may. A1, A2, A3 just numbers. If you are really ready and efficient enought for the mescalito you shouldn't be woried if it is really A2+ or just A2. Don't fortet to practice halling setting up your ledge and the like. Get on it and lets see some index TRs

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Just the name Mescalito should scare you, gonna be a total mindfuck. Mescalito is HUGE, twice the size of Zodiac. yeah, anybody can climb A2, but two thousand feet off the deck,running it out on small gear, the wind howling and the ropes twisting, low on water, dropped your ATC, days to the top and you just checked your weather report and theres a storm coming. Yeah, anybody can climb A2...

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....yeah, anybody can climb A2, but two thousand feet off the deck....

 

Two thousand feet up, no problem! You only got another grand to the top.

 

Rock on!

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:lmao:

 

 

what r u laughing at? you've done tons of aid pitches and some smaller big walls and couldn't squirm ur way up the nose... :wave:

 

 

 

mayhap exactly what i was laughing about? :)

 

doesn't sound like rock-on is goign during the valley's saharan days though...

 

the guy is looking for stoke so give him stoke...well perhaps u might wanna go there in december and have a hand at it.....

Edited by pink

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Is this the guy you are climbing with? At the pace of one pitch per day, it'll take you a full month to send and a lot of water.

 

I think it is possible to do a big wall your first try without having ever been on the big stone, however you'll need to practice your systems at the local crag( and no, aiding a bolted sport route doesn't count as practice) If you can't lead and follow a pitch in less than two hours, you'll never make it and we will indeed see a real time bail report on the interwebs.

 

 

 

 

serious aid pitches can take up to 8 hours or more.... as silly as aid climbing is be careful about what u call someone else out on cause you'll be getting rescued yourself before you know it. BE HUMBLE DON'T STUMBLE :kisss:

Edited by pink

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the guy is looking for stoke so give him stoke...

didn't i? :crazy:

 

if that wasn't enough...uh...

YosSummer2009_025.jpg

...will this do? :P

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that's totally cool. u can see the line perfectly.... and the fianl pitches of mescalito from th tip of the tree.

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cord, you sure you're not just a giant alter-ego? you seem waaaaay too chipper to be an actual human-bean :)

 

 

:rawk: -on though! :grin:

Especially an AID climber, are they even considered human-beans?

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been 23 years. things mita changed. goes clean. bring lots of tricks. effen long and water can be an issue. good luck.

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I did it 6 or 7 years ago and I remember it as straightforward. Not at all difficult just long, it's all about pacing yourself. If you can't maintain a viable pace in good style then you're doomed.

Edited by noraA

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Funny to hear of old bringmedeath on here. I did mescalito with him about 5 years ago. Now he has done quite a bit of sick aid since then but Mescalito was his first bigwall. I remember rapping after fixing to pitch 4 our first day and him saying that was the highest he had been off the deck.

 

If your asking if Monkeyface will prepare you for Mesc I feel you probably are in for quite an experience. Mescalito is pretty sustained at A2-A3. We didn't have to hammer but as stated above we had a double set of offset aliens. A proficient team could probably fix and do the route in 4-5 more days. If your a new wall climber you might want to plan for 3-4 more (your pigs are going to be so fat, mwhahahaha).

 

All that being said I have seen people who have never aided before walk up and solo el cap walls as hard as Mescalito. Who am I to tell you what is possible and what is not. Go for it.

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Gee lot's of good and bad beta in here. Some of you have got us psyched to send! While the rest of you obviously just want to sit at your computors and dog on us. Either way we will send. Thanks to all that care to help! Rock on!

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Gee lot's of good and bad beta in here. Some of you have got us psyched to send! While the rest of you obviously just want to sit at your computors and dog on us. Either way we will send. Thanks to all that care to help! Rock on!

 

You seem to assume that those that urge a cautious approach building big wall skills prior to El Cap Grade VI are just sitting at the computer and dogging you. Perhaps this is their way to help you enjoy your experience more instead of cheerleading you into a potential epic. You asked for advice and you got it from some experienced people. After you get on the route you can go back over this thread and decide what was good beta and what was bad.

 

Regardless, enjoy your preparation and good luck on the climb. Your enthusiasm and determination will serve you well.

Edited by matt_warfield

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