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[TR] nw face w satilite peak mt snoqualmi - central park gully gd II+-III A-I3+R+M4/5R+? 2/23/2010


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Trip: nw face w satilite peak mt snoqualmi - central park gully gd II+-III A-I3+R+ M4/5R+?


Date: 2/23/2010


Trip Report:

in feb 1993 myself and steve wick climbed up to below the large cave on the upper 1/3 of the couloir. the 1st pitch climbs a 75+ ice/snice smear to a chockstone belay on the left or a tree belay up and right. then follow the corner[60-70degree] until the cave. above the cave is a straitforward 50 degree snow couloir. in 93 we bailed. on tuesday 2-23-10 i downclimbed and rapped to the base of the cave intent on rope soloing the crux pitch to finish it.it starts on the right side of the cave on near vertical rock[pro difficult]for 30 feet then mellows to 65 degrees with nice sticks.well i couldnt lead it so i top-ropped it and then rappled the rest of the couloir fixing some anchors on the way. the crux pitch still needs a proper lead, maybe when feeling stronger? it will be a bold lead. the climbing over-all is really good but protection is difficult to find, although the anchors are solid but you do have to search for them. I doubt it will become popular?. if anyones done it already let me know? m.preiss


Gear Notes:

1 60 meter rope two would be nice if rappeling but i did it w/one. 8-10 pins thin-1 inch full set nuts and tricams and a few cams.1-2 ice scews shorties?


Approach Notes:

same as new york gully, its the left most gully on the satilite peak with an obvious large cave. 4-5 pitches + 300 ft upper couloir

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jerzy would have sat out all night until it got done then chewed on some gravel for breakfast. i need my coffee. yes wayne its out because i dont know if ill ever lead the pitch? but i think ill give it one more go, or bring someone with me thats good. though it is kind of late/warm. with a more typical snow year it may be a little easier[start it higher]

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it kind of looks like it could be a huge chockstone from below, but its actually a large cave. its the first gully on the right of the access gully to nyg. about the rating i dont know what you mean, is it to complicated? until it gets climbed a few times to get a cencus on the rating. its 95% snow and ice so? [its a becky II+ and a new school III]

Edited by kukuzka1
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