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Val Zephyr

[TR] Lane Peak - Lover's Lane 2/20/2010

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Trip: Lane Peak - Lover's Lane


Date: 2/20/2010


Trip Report:

Carolina and I climbed Lane peak via Lover’s Lane today in perfect conditions. I attempted this route last December and found it with much skimpier coverage. Today was nothing but nice, plastic, every-swing-sticks climbing for the entire length of the couloir.


The route goes up the leftmost couloir



Approaching; route in center



We climbed the route in two simulclimbing leads. I took the first lead just below the WI2 step (now more of a steep solid snow step). I continued up the couloir, placing 4 pickets, and stopped a rope-length below what I think was the easy mixed step (now also just steep solid snow). Carolina took the next lead to the top of the couloir.





She anchored to a tree just below the snow arete at the top of the couloir. I continued up and peered over the other side and became quite pleased that Carolina had such a solid tree anchor. The snow arete was soft and mildly corniced. I carefully swam in steep powder over to the rap tree. A 0.5 camalot above the rap tree protected the powder swim traverse over the abyss of the zipper for Carolina to join me at the rap tree. Peering into the Zipper from this vantage point was pretty cool! We made a double rope rappel into the Zipper (I got some helpful advice that a single does not make it! :shock: ). We were now transplanted 2/3 of the way into the Zipper Route. Two routes for the price of one!


Looking up the Zipper



Carolina topping out on the Zipper route with the rap tree at the top of Lover’s Lane draw in.



Lastly, we had to try to stand on the tippy-top. This was probably the trickiest part of the whole climb; completely because of different snow conditions on this side. We plunged up much nastier, looser snow on the south face, protecting the final ¼ pitch to the summit ridge. We stopped here, as the last bit looked too sketchy (loose snow over rock). We were literally a stone’s throw away at this point and could peer over the north side; close enough!



This was a fine climb and we are curious why it does not see more ascents. We felt that the added steeper sections and rappel make it an overall more interesting objective.

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Nice work Valerie! This has only been on my radar for the last 3 years. My problem has always been having the right combination of days off work, partner available, and route in shape. This weekend I've been on-call for work wishing I were out in this perfect weather. Glad you were out climbing! Are you still thinking about a rematch with Redoubt this summer?

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we must have been right behind you on the Zipper.


The snow to the summit was NBD. A little bit of a windslab that you had to knock away to get to a more consolidated layer.


Man, was it a great day to be out there.

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Le Piston- There will be a rematch with Formidable (not Redoubt)this summer!


Goatboy- Approach from Narada Falls parking area. Go straight up the slope to the road to reflection lakes. When the road turns 90 degrees (first turn), continue straight ahead down through the trees. You'll enter a meadow. Continue a short distance to the base of the route. You'll see the whole route from Both the Parking lot and the meadow (in good weather). This is a short approach (maybe 1.5-2 miles). No floatation need right now. Enjoy!

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Sorry, just a little brain fart...it's the problem with getting older. Glad to hear...Formidable is a pretty cool looking climb.

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