spionin Posted February 14, 2010 Share Posted February 14, 2010 Trip: slovenia - misja pec, crni kal, osp Date: 2/14/2010 Trip Report: over the past week, my old friend (from undergrad) alexei and i drove between belgrade, serbia, and istria, slovenia. we climbed a bit the coast is full of huge limestone crags with hundreds of routes (about 250 at misja pec alone), with only a few below .10, and most in mid-.12 to mid-.14. the weather began a big chilly, but we hung out, explored the adriatic coast, slept in the car for a week and dirtbagged our way around. when we arrived in osp there was only one other group of brits, who declared the 5 degree C weather warm, and raced up their .13s. alexei and i both forgot our chalk bags, and didn't have a guide, so steve the brit kindly loaned us his! we decided to meet again in a couple of days to return the gear. the first day we only climbed a few routes, each leading a handful of 15-20 m pitches full of smeary feet, sweaty cracks, and chossy holds. it was cold. COLD. i got to feeling quite bad for myself on our warm-up route, like "why am i having such a hard time pulling down a .9?" until we realized later that we jumped on a .10b. crazy french ratings. the following day the weather turned even more horrid, we tried to find better conditions in trieste, italy, but it was snowing/raining sideways there, so we went back to slovenia (this place sucks you in!). we returned to osp on thursday and had a great time, met with the brits who were set on onsighting - steve did a .14c in front of us, and dan - .13d. this girl, catherine, ran up a route that alexei decided to follow. he had a hard time on the crux, but that's alright because it turned out to be a .12c. not a bad day! oh, it was cold again. and snowing. it's a good thing that the crag is mad overhung. oh, one of the brits was a nice man named rab. here he is, belaying alexei. guess what he used to do for a living? :)ok, http://www.thebmc.co.uk/Feature.aspx?id=1685 oh shit - steve the brit? yeah - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Steve_McClure didn't even realize it until a few days after we last saw them! it's been good climb'n. in-between actual cragging, we kept ourselves in shape by sampling what historical monuments had to offer... in belgrade, serbia ...in rijeka, croatia ...and in piran, slovenia saturday and sunday were AWESOME. it certainly reflected in the amount of traffic this place got. with only an hour drive from ljubljana, it's hard to stay away. i was climbing in long-sleeved tshirt, and felt quite warm when the wall got hit by the sun. in crni kal, alexei and i both lead 4 routes, up to about .10c. not too hard, but we got our fingertips torn up pretty well on this stuff. fantastic day. hard to to show the size, but the route was almost 75 feet long, and the crack is almost 2x wider than my body sharp, pockety limestone alexei and i, happy after an awesome day this stuff just eats your hands: Gear Notes: everything you need for bolt clipp'n. the routes are bolted generously, routes are 17-25 m long. Approach Notes: 5 min up windy streets of osp, slovenia Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Braydon Posted February 14, 2010 Share Posted February 14, 2010 Sport stoke Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete_H Posted February 14, 2010 Share Posted February 14, 2010 Nice! I think if I go there I'll wait for warmer weather though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daydreamer Posted February 15, 2010 Share Posted February 15, 2010 sick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spionin Posted February 15, 2010 Author Share Posted February 15, 2010 (edited) thank you. it takes about 3 hours to drive across the country, and it's quite amazing that in the span of about an hour one's able to climb WI6+ up north, and then climb on the adriatic in a t-shirt (or sail. or ski at a resort situated at about 6000 feet. or just put on the blitz ). have i mentioned it's carnival week here, so people are wild in the streets at night? Edited February 15, 2010 by spionin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbcbd Posted February 15, 2010 Share Posted February 15, 2010 Very cool, now I await a trip report with pics from carnival! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spionin Posted February 15, 2010 Author Share Posted February 15, 2010 Very cool, now I await a trip report with pics from carnival! i'll work on it last night we danced in the street. though february weather doesn't permit for too much, khm, nakedness, and the costumes overall make it look more like a furries convention than a general pre-lent debauchery. i thought about walking out dressed as an "ice climber" today, but then thought better of it and decided that people might take my sharp tools seriously. maybe if i get my face painted with butterflies i could ameliorate the effect?.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbw1966 Posted March 4, 2010 Share Posted March 4, 2010 Dont know about solvenia but Croatia--right next door--can get wayyyyy too hot in the summer time for climbing. Just as well, they sell beer and jelly donuts on the beaches. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Klemzy Posted July 16, 2015 Share Posted July 16, 2015 For all the informations you need about climbing in Istria (Slovenia, Croatia and Italy) check www.climbistria.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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