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[TR] Dragontail Peak - Triple Couloir 2/9/2010


Gaston

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Trip: Dragontail Peak - Triple Couloir

 

Date: 2/9/2010

 

Trip Report:

On February 9 I climbed a very dry Triple Couloir with EH. We climbed the 2nd variation, rapping into the top of the 1st couloir and climbing the short steep choke to access the 2nd couloir. We found unconsolidated snow over rock in steeper areas, including the ramp leading to the rap anchor and the exit to the 3rd couloir. A steep styrofoam pitch earned us quick entrance to the whole thing.

 

3.jpg

 

Good bucket steps permitted us to move together in all three couloirs.

 

1.jpg

 

We kept up the pace, knowing that Heidelburger closes at eight.

 

2.jpg

 

Thanks to EH for a super good day out on the lovely north side of Dragontail.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

We used cams from .25 to 3 inches, lost arrows and blades, and one 15cm screw in good ice at the choke between the 2nd and 3rd couloir.

 

Approach Notes:

Bootpacked all the way to Colchuck Lake. No snow melting currently required--we busted through a thin spot in the lake ice and guzzled freely.

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Take it as a compliment, Ed.

 

Having climbed that route myself in the past (via the runnels, not the rappel variation) I am familiar with the challenges and commitment of it and am impressed by the tiny pack you're carrying. Either you folks went super-light or Gaston (who is not pictured in any of the images) is carrying a bigger load... in either case, it's impressive!

 

Nice work succeeding on a classic route with unconsolidated steep snow... the hike out after summitting Triple C always seems long.

 

I assume the FS road is still gated at the campground?

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