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msgehard

Late August Climbs

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Chicagoians looking for a nice easy Cascades climb for the third week in August. We were thinking about something on Hood but have been told that it is too late in the season.

 

Looking for a snow and ice climb. This will be the first mountain experience for some in the group.

 

Ideas??

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Mt Adams, South Spur

Mt Baker, Coleman-Demming glacier

Mt Rainier, Emmons Glacier

Eldorado Peak, East Ridge

Sahale Peak, Quien Sabe Glacier

 

[ 05-09-2002, 11:01 AM: Message edited by: danielpatricksmith ]

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If you're going to be in Oregon, you might try Collier Glacier route on the Middle Sister. In Washington, Ditto on Baker and Sahale. For an introductory climb, these offer more scenery compared to effort than, say Rainier or even Adams.

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Wouldn't no crevasses be the ticket for people on their first mountain experience? Thus, perhaps Adams South (walk up) route. What about Mt. Shasta?

 

I've seen tons of internet deptictions of people getting freaked out trying to summit Sahale. Would that be a good recommendation for total novices?

 

Isn't Mt. Ruth supposed to be a good one?

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ChucK, you might be right about the summit of Sahale -- it is exposed and can be a little intimidating, but I would have no hesitation taking a complete novice up there. I believe I could get just about anybody up and down it without scaring them too badly, and once they have done this a newbie will likely have a strong sense that they climbed a real mountain.

 

In my opinion, crevasses are a PLUS for an introductory climb just because they are something exciting which somebody from Chicago probably hasn't seen before. As long as the leader knows what they are doing and the party is four or larger so they can easily pull someone out of a crevasse, I would go out of my way to select a route with a crevassed glacier. We're not talking the Khumbu ice fall here, but something scenic.

 

I would think Mount Ruth would be another excellent choice because it has little talus, it is not a huge effort, and it is not technical but it is very scenic.

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Willis Wall should be in fine shape by August. [Roll Eyes]

 

Serioulsly, the Mt. Adams South Spur is a worthy objective for beginners with a "big mountain" feel to it. It's an easy overnighter with a nice big bivy at the lunch counter. Fun summit day too, crampons and iceaxes recomended so, you still feel like you are "climbing". Great views of Hood and the Columbia river all the way up with a nice view of Rainier on a clear day as a reward for getting to the top.

 

No real exposure or danger other than glissading and (obvioulsy) weather. Have fun (its the most important part) [Wink]

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To be rather blunt--I think that both the Mt Baker, Coleman-Demming route, and Mt Rainier, Emmons Glacier route, suck in August--everything's wide open; traversing around all the crevasses starts getting monotonous. [Mad]

 

Adams S. Spur is cool, but in late Aug. it tends to lose its “mountaineering” feel—especially when the guy next to you is walking his dog.

 

Sahale Arm might be cool. Daniel via Daniel or Lynch glacier perhaps.

 

Iceguy

[big Drink]

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Eldorado is fun, though be sure to be in shape for approach. I was there in mid-September last year and didn't have any problems with crevasses, though we did cross a few thin snow bridges (that was a low snow year, too). The final bit of climbing on the summit ridge will give newbies a good taste of exposure.

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quote:

Originally posted by msgehard:

Chicagoians .... Looking for a snow and ice climb.

Ideas??

I like:

 

Sloan Pk - corkscrew route (small glacier, followed by nice rock "scramble")

 

Mt. Daniel - Lynch Glacier. (Like Sloan, more glacier, less scramble)

 

Buckner - SW slope. (steep snow slog)

 

Adams - south spur will do too, if you want a big one.

 

Sloan, Daniel and Buckner are far more scenic with a better cascades feel than any of the volcanoes.

 

GS

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Thanks for all of the input guys.

 

Some of the group will just have gotten done with Rainier (probably Emmons Glacier) and will have crevasse experience so I'm not worried about falling in.

 

The newbies will have some backcountry experience but no crampon/axe expereince. We'll most likely do a snow school and then climb. I'll try and post a trip report when we get back.

 

Thanks again...

 

Mike

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