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Peter_Puget

Fav Climb Nobody Talks About

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agreed.

 

and for perspective, the short gray buttress on the left that is split with a dark chimney is about 50 feet tall. and the sick aretes in the top right corner are mainly boltfree.

 

 

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Golly, Crimper, could you tone down the beta master virtual tour. It's one thing to drop the names of favorite obscurities. It's quite another to blow it up with photography. I mean, seriously, do you want the Beacon Rock squad out there?

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No worries, why would a Beatard go that far to climb, they already have the best crag in the world. Now me on the otherhand, I think that's a sweet looking little crag...

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I wandered upon Mastodon Roof in Leavenworth somewhat by accident once, or so I seem to remember. I also never had heard people talking about it, but man, what a fun little gem of a roof!

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Here's Mastadon's fa'ist just last summer on some nearby roofs:

 

sorry pics didnt work!

 

and here's one stolen from Supertopo (taken by an ex Seattle guy)

 

 

 

ZombieRoof.jpg

 

This thread just needed more pictures

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Golly, Crimper, could you tone down the beta master virtual tour. It's one thing to drop the names of favorite obscurities. It's quite another to blow it up with photography. I mean, seriously, do you want the Beacon Rock squad out there?
I'm on my way... Thanks!

 

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No worries, why would a Beatard go that far to climb, they already have the best crag in the world. Now me on the otherhand, I think that's a sweet looking little crag...
But said crag is essentially off limits till July. Beatards must get mobile till then...

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the plank - 3 pitch 10a on Neverland wall, exit 38.

the second pitch is a bizarre but fun 10a traverse.

 

lost my marbles - 2 pitch 10c on Neverland wall, exit 38. powerful overhang to delicate slab, the perfect all-a-rounder.

 

 

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Thats what Im talking Lance, One of the best least done corners in the canyon ! On one of the best peices of rock !

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the plank - 3 pitch 10a on Neverland wall, exit 38.

the second pitch is a bizarre but fun 10a traverse.

 

lost my marbles - 2 pitch 10c on Neverland wall, exit 38. powerful overhang to delicate slab, the perfect all-a-rounder.

 

Love both of those climbs. That 10a part seemed stiff for x38 standards until I found the pocket under the roof and it became easy.

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hey backclipped, i hear you on "protecting" your local crags....but cougar is hardly a secret. and i posted a photo taken from a parking lot - not a topo, or even driving directions. (PM if you want to chat more, i'm all ears and at least we can chat about the crag we both love.)

 

the 3.5 hour drive from portland, the lack of access to a topo that actually identifies the routes, and a short season of may to october, are going to weed out all but the most dedicated -and for those who are dedicated enough, good for them. i showed a photo that might get some people psyched to come down and do some new routes. and more likely, this thread will be forgotten by may anyway...

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why do you want to get more people climbing there? Does it matter?

 

 

I agree Cougar is not a secret, but it probably doesn't need to be marketed on the internet. Let them figure it out on their own.

 

There certainly are topos, but we don't post them.

 

JL

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jlag, backclipped, you can just PM me instead. we probably already know each other, at least by sight. there's no reason to call even more attention to this thread. (i'm already on your team)

 

 

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hey backclipped, i hear you on "protecting" your local crags....but cougar is hardly a secret. and i posted a photo taken from a parking lot - not a topo, or even driving directions. (PM if you want to chat more, i'm all ears and at least we can chat about the crag we both love.)

 

the 3.5 hour drive from portland, the lack of access to a topo that actually identifies the routes, and a short season of may to october, are going to weed out all but the most dedicated -and for those who are dedicated enough, good for them. i showed a photo that might get some people psyched to come down and do some new routes. and more likely, this thread will be forgotten by may anyway...

 

Good on you for trying to get people stoked on your local crag.

 

All this "my own personal super duper ultra secret climbing spot that I can only show you if you take a blood oath, pinky swear and agree to hike in blindfolded" is total bullshit.

 

And if I'm not mistaken the whole point of this thread was to get people talking about climbs that "NOBODY TALKS ABOUT"

 

Unless it's sitting on private land and you are the only one with permission from the owner then you are just gonna have to deal with the fact that someone else might be there enjoying it as much as you are.

 

 

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i wish it still was my local crag but i've been back in pdx for 2.5 years now. i'm lucky to get 1-2 trips per summer to cougar these days.

 

also, there are some small crags in central oregon, and here in the columbia gorge, that would suffer from more traffic because thay are so small to begin with. and i haven't mentioned and won't be mentioning them here. but to me, cougar is not in that category. it's relatively huge, and it would be nice to see people do more than the same 10-15 sport routes in addition to the buttress.

 

this thread is more like "favorite climbs nobody talk about, but it's not taboo to talk about them."

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was a picture of cougar even posted? mine is not cougar.

 

jlag,

miss you bro! i'd love to be out climbing with you again.

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hey mark. i posted a photo you took of cougar. i think you took it from the parking lot with a telephoto lens or something. i just thought one photo of the actual rock would spice things up. (i think i pointed out that you took the photo)

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hey backclipped, i hear you on "protecting" your local crags....but cougar is hardly a secret. and i posted a photo taken from a parking lot - not a topo, or even driving directions. (PM if you want to chat more, i'm all ears and at least we can chat about the crag we both love.)

 

the 3.5 hour drive from portland, the lack of access to a topo that actually identifies the routes, and a short season of may to october, are going to weed out all but the most dedicated -and for those who are dedicated enough, good for them. i showed a photo that might get some people psyched to come down and do some new routes. and more likely, this thread will be forgotten by may anyway...

 

Good on you for trying to get people stoked on your local crag.

 

All this "my own personal super duper ultra secret climbing spot that I can only show you if you take a blood oath, pinky swear and agree to hike in blindfolded" is total bullshit.

 

And if I'm not mistaken the whole point of this thread was to get people talking about climbs that "NOBODY TALKS ABOUT"

 

Unless it's sitting on private land and you are the only one with permission from the owner then you are just gonna have to deal with the fact that someone else might be there enjoying it as much as you are.

 

 

 

Atreides, you sexy blue within blue eyed warrior, consider yourself cordially invited to sample the fruits of Cougar. On behalf of the Bend climbing community, I pinky swear not to slash your tires or steal you stereo.

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