toddipoo Posted February 15, 2010 Share Posted February 15, 2010 Where ever I may roam. 5.9 , 5 pitches. Smith Rock Gandalfs Grip. 5.9 ,3 pitches. Broughten Bluff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wimsey Posted February 15, 2010 Share Posted February 15, 2010 Edge of Light (or is it darkness)--Bend, OR Windy Corner--Bend, OR where in bend are these? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chirp Posted February 15, 2010 Share Posted February 15, 2010 Hall of Smears - Kolob Ambient Domain - The Bend Hot Fudge Thursday - RR The Thimble, Original Route - Black Hills Badmotorfinger - Fossil Rock Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted February 15, 2010 Share Posted February 15, 2010 Jubilant Song in RR is one that I saw Joanne Urioste recommend in a mag about 10 yrs ago as one of her RR favorites. Did it and thought it was good. Seems like it is totally off the radar for most though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chirp Posted February 15, 2010 Share Posted February 15, 2010 The approach tends to put most folks off, but that it the beauty of RR, something for absolutely everyone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Argus Posted February 15, 2010 Share Posted February 15, 2010 The approach tends to put most folks off, but that it the beauty of RR, something for absolutely everyone. True statement about the approaches. I think Black Dagger and Armatron are a couple of the best routes I have done there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crillz Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 NW Corner of the NEWS Our Father in Red Rox April Mayhem, Peek-a-Boo West Face in 11worth Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete_H Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 NW Corner is pretty well-known and popular. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shapp Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 Crack of Infinity, Smith (a climb I love to do over and over again for some reason) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crimper Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 the climbs in bend that backclipped (do we know each other??)mentioned are at "cougar" on a 400-500 foot high crag 11 miles west of bend, visible from the road below. it's andesite. it looks like spring mountain in some ways but has faces with edges and patinas more similar to granite (really). it sees amazingly little traffic despite its proximity and pretty short approach. it saw its first ascents in the late 1970s: groundup trad. then in the 80s and 90s it got some rap-bolted routes from guys like jim davis and mike pajunas who had been bolting in smith. (they also put up trad lines, but mainly sport routes) a bunch of groundup first ascents of both single and multi pitch routes went on back in 2005-2007, adding to the maybe 35-45 routes that existed before then. there's maybe 50-60 routes now. if not for smith 30-40 miles northeast i am sure it would be overly bolted and heavily trafficked. i could spray all day but i won't...but i will say that the 4 pitch cougar buttress (from the 70s) has got to be the best 5-9 multi in oregon, not that that is saying much.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corvallisclimb Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 i could spray all day but i won't...but i will say that the 4 pitch cougar buttress (from the 70s) has got to be the best 5-9 multi in oregon, not that that is saying much.... I'll second Bryan on this one. And thats saying a lot! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sol Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 This could go on forever... Index: Tempichous Senseless Thoughts of Paranoia Bravo Jean Marc Earwax Crack 24 Hour Buccaneer The Cidiot Tadpole L-Town: Air Roof Revolving Doors of Justice Giant Steps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el jefe Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 "revolving doors of justice" -- haven't heard anyone mention that one in a long time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StreetBoss Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 (edited) Levitation 29 Dreamer Orbit Edited February 17, 2010 by StreetBoss Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lodestone Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 Where ever I may roam. 5.9 , 5 pitches. Smith Rock Gandalfs Grip. 5.9 ,3 pitches. Broughten Bluff Both of these climbs get plenty of talk and attention. Chad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lodestone Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 Short Circuit - Broughton Bluff Pretty much a tall boulder problem but it climbs great. Chad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wimsey Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 the climbs in bend that backclipped (do we know each other??)mentioned are at "cougar" Oh, I thought he was talking about some other crag since he mentions Cougar separatly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fgw Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 La Cierta Edad & Overhanging Hangover in Red rocks, thought both were great. Second the Window Route on Echo Pinnacle in Moab - very unique pitch (#3 I think?). Culls in Space, Condor, Paper Tiger, Pack Animal direct & Toy Blocks at Smith seemed like very good routes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fgw Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 ...but i will say that the 4 pitch cougar buttress (from the 70s) has got to be the best 5-9 multi in oregon, not that that is saying much.... it's nice but there's gotta be others out there that could compete, no? White Satin? Dilley's Delight even. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crimper Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 fgw: have you climbed cougar buttress? it's like 400 sustained feet of 5-8 or 5-9 comparable to the best parts of white satin, thin air, etc. at smith - and from right off the ground until the base of the headwall 400 feet later. (from there you can do either a 4th class escape left of the headwall, 11c trad straight up the headwall, or 5-10 trad to cut into the 4th class escape) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fgw Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 I have (up to that 4th class spot anyway). Fun route for sure in a pretty setting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crimper Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 er, i guess you have climbed it, you said it was 'nice." sorry i missed that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric8 Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 sunshine crack bugaboos Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crimper Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 here's a shot of cougar. the shiny headwall at the very top is pretty obvious. the buttress starts pretty dead center on the orange rock, then heads up the left-leaning corner (black streak just below headwall)to gain the huge ledge at the base of the headwall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 Cougar has good sport climbing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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