Jim Posted February 11, 2010 Share Posted February 11, 2010 I was up at Squamish a couple years ago and someone half my age was belaying with the BUS system so I went over and asked about it. He walked me through it and we talked about the SSS. Nice guy. We both decided that we liked our own way because that was what we were used to and that both do the job. If he were belaying me I wouldn't be worried. Just give me a competent belayer and I'll be happy. Until the finger crack crux anyway! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted February 11, 2010 Share Posted February 11, 2010 To call something retarded and dangerous just because it isn't the method you were taught is disingenuous at best. I didn't say it was dangerous. If anything it's a fundamentally too overly cautious approach to belaying - more about risk management over a broad demographic than about belaying per se. I see it as a sign and natural consequence of attempting to stretch the demographics of the sport; hence the notion of it as a lowest common denominator form of belaying that assumes you're an idiot and in the tidal flow of bodies a gym sees that's probably not inappropriate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted February 11, 2010 Share Posted February 11, 2010 I belay like that when toproping and gym climbing. With a Gri gri too. The climber is essentially always locked off, and you can talk to the guy next to you, scratch yer nutz and stuff without total focus and be 100% safe. To each his own. I like a mostly continuous, non-locked off belay when I'm climbing, locking off only while I'm placing pro. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted February 11, 2010 Share Posted February 11, 2010 To each his own. I like a mostly continuous, non-locked off belay when I'm climbing, locking off only while I'm placing pro. Here it is then. continuous, non-locked off belay I'll have to remember your preference next time I belay you. Gri Gris are all automatic and stuff. This must be the SSS. "Stop Stare Salivate. " Â Â Â Ps, I'm joking. As we all know, the guy(s) in the pic is(are) an excellent belayer(s). I got antsy and was taking off is all, he caught me 40-50 feet or so further up....2 times Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBo6 Posted February 11, 2010 Share Posted February 11, 2010 Jesus Bill, its hard to tell if you are on rock, or someone's lawn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted February 11, 2010 Share Posted February 11, 2010 (edited) Lawn! :-0 Â ...except there's be no way you could run a mower through that as there were sooooo many loose rocks, you'd kill a lawnmower for sure. Ben didn't last long out in the fall zone, he got the helmet on fast, but as a savvy, smart dude, he wisely got squarely tucked under and overhang real quick. Here he is less than 5 min later. LOL! Â Â Â Edited February 11, 2010 by billcoe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted February 11, 2010 Share Posted February 11, 2010 Looks like a good new spot for the chair belay given the long lag before the first clip... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gyro Posted February 11, 2010 Author Share Posted February 11, 2010 Hey, is that whole wheat Cheerios or the regular kind? Â Neither, granola with dried cranberries. Â I don't care what method they use as long as somebody is behind them holding onto a gear loop. Top-rope falls have so much force, you know!!!! THIS ISN'T A GAME!!!! THIS IS SERIOUS SHIT!!! Â To be safe they really should have a second belayer down line of the first in case the first belayer is stricken with acute narcolepsy what with all the excitement that top roped gym climbing has to offer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted February 11, 2010 Share Posted February 11, 2010 Looks like a good new spot for the chair belay given the long lag before the first clip... Indeed! I told Jim just last night I'm moving the chair which you noted had rolled down the hill over to this very area. Figured you'd be happier. I'll probably grab it Sat. __________________________________________________________________ Â Â Neither, granola with dried cranberries. Holy Crap Gyro: "granola with dried cranberries" - you are a wealth of new knowledge! I'd never heard of that kind of Cheerios or the term BUS either, no joke. As of today, I am less ignorant, by a tad, than yesterday. No telling where this could end up if I can stay on this new path. Thanks! Â ps, "SSS", a term everyone here appears to have already figured out, is still on my knowledge seeking radar screen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gyro Posted February 11, 2010 Author Share Posted February 11, 2010 Neither, granola with dried cranberries. Holy Crap Gyro: "granola with dried cranberries" - you are a wealth of new knowledge! I'd never heard of that kind of Cheerios or the term BUS either, no joke. As of today, I am less ignorant, by a tad, than yesterday. No telling where this could end up if I can stay on this new path. Thanks! Â ps, "SSS", a term everyone here appears to have already figured out, is still on my knowledge seeking radar screen. Â It is always a pleasure billcoe, talking with you regardless of the forum is like taking a wrong turn and finding oneself buried in spray. Â SSS: Fast forward to 2:20. Â As to your new path leading you, here's hoping it is out of rehab! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted February 11, 2010 Share Posted February 11, 2010 i wonder if you would still climb on that shit if oregon had any real rock to climb? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted February 12, 2010 Share Posted February 12, 2010 I would, not much into granite personally - a character defect I know - but I'm addicted to sandstone and basalt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pilchuck71 Posted February 12, 2010 Share Posted February 12, 2010 I would, not much into granite personally - a character defect I know - but I'm addicted to sandstone and basalt. Â That is crazy talk! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyler_Durden Posted February 12, 2010 Share Posted February 12, 2010 I can't believe people on this forum actually banter about and mull over this bullshit. LOSERS. Â Who gives a FUCK?! BUS, SSS, STFU! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aussie69 Posted February 12, 2010 Share Posted February 12, 2010 What else are people supposed to do in the rain laden PNW？ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted February 12, 2010 Share Posted February 12, 2010 Who gives a FUCK?! BUS, SSS, STFU! I do. I don't like being choked to death when I'm trying to lead up a line at some reasonable pace, or seconding / TR with a belayer leaving big loops of slack between whenever they decide it's time to belay again and lock off. I've had both happen and don't care for either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted February 12, 2010 Share Posted February 12, 2010 I can't believe people on this forum actually banter about and mull over this bullshit. LOSERS. Â Who gives a FUCK?! BUS, SSS, STFU! the first rule of the climbing forum is - YOU DO NOT SPRAY IN THE CLIMBING FORUM Â and the second rule of the climbing forum is... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gyro Posted February 12, 2010 Author Share Posted February 12, 2010 I can't believe people on this forum actually banter about and mull over this bullshit. LOSERS. Â Who gives a FUCK?! BUS, SSS, STFU! Â I know, why would a bunch of climbers, more or less in the off season, talk about emerging trends/changes in belay methods. Totally crazy that people would want to weigh in on, or in some cases see for the first time, a different method of belaying and debate the merits and debate the fact that many places mandate its use at their facility. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted February 12, 2010 Share Posted February 12, 2010 more or less in the off season, there is no off-season!!! Â don't listen to tyler - he's infectious human waste Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Posted February 12, 2010 Share Posted February 12, 2010 I'm just secretly hoping this turns into a bolting thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gyro Posted February 12, 2010 Author Share Posted February 12, 2010 more or less in the off season, there is no off-season!!!  don't listen to tyler - he's infectious human waste  I said more or less! How about "slow season"? Or for me, "get fat and ski" season. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trainwreck Posted February 13, 2010 Share Posted February 13, 2010 i have honestly never given any thought to how i belay someone, other than 'feed slack when they're clipping' 'be ready to catch their whipper' etc etc. is it because i have never been belay certified? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted February 14, 2010 Share Posted February 14, 2010 ...is it because i have never been belay certified? You're clearly a danger to yourself and everyone around you if you haven't been belay certified and especially so if you weren't so certified by someone who is AMGA Single Pitch Instructor qualified. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevetimetravlr Posted February 14, 2010 Share Posted February 14, 2010 Joseph, you're supposed to say "Ha Ha" after you say something like that, so everyone knows you're kidding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted February 14, 2010 Share Posted February 14, 2010 Joseph, you're supposed to say "Ha Ha" after you say something like that, so everyone knows you're kidding. Â Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.