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tivoli_mike

Learning to set pro

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Hey all,

 

thanks for the beta and tips. I already own Long's book on anchors, which I have been studying... Plan on doing some climbing today out at 38 ,LIttle Si, or depending on weather, maybe tooling around the Marymoor rock.

 

I will be the guy in the black hooded sweatshirt that says Jade Tree.

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quote:

Hey Dru, how come the Russian guy at Climb On in Squamish hates your beloved Tri-cams? I went in there a while ago wanting to get one to play around with, but he went off on a tirade about how much they suck. Something about them being too hard to place and remove ("only if you want the second to hate you") and how Abalakov invented them and someone else stole the design...

Hmmm, sounds like he doesn't place them well. [hell no] (Though I don't know the guy. Could be other "issues".) Tricams are cool, but have worked the best for me in horizontal cracks. I like that they can be placed as camming devices and as passive stoppers. Placed in the camming position, they should pop out easily. Even a well set one should only need a tap with a cleaning tool. If you're going to get your first tricam, get pinkie.... pink tricam... nice.

 

[ 05-04-2002, 11:31 PM: Message edited by: mtngrrrl ]

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quote:

Originally posted by chucK:

Wow, you must have a pretty small rack! (i.e. Don't listen to that guy! He is (should buy) nuts!
[Wink]
)


Yeah, I don't have any small cams (like aliens), too expensive. The #1 hex rules, man. You get two differently-sized placements out of one piece, and thats just counting using the wide surface of the hex. At least twice recently I've used it for a better placement than I could get with any nut.

 

The bigger sizes of hexes are great for scaring off (or fighting off) bears.

 

Hey Dru, how come the Russian guy at Climb On in Squamish hates your beloved Tri-cams? I went in there a while ago wanting to get one to play around with, but he went off on a tirade about how much they suck. Something about them being too hard to place and remove ("only if you want the second to hate you") and how Abalakov invented them and someone else stole the design... [Roll Eyes]

 

[ 05-04-2002, 12:24 PM: Message edited by: slothrop ]

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Tri-cams are so light, don't make noise and place so neatly! Every thing up to #4 rocks-especially "pinkie". The big ones are less cool-and I'd use a hex. Or even, ulp, a camalot. [smile]

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Hey tivoli_mike, you say you were going to be "tooling around the Marymoor Rock." If you were just bouldering or toproping, please ignore this post...

 

Just wanted to point out that no hardware is to be used on Marymoor Rock except quickdraws and your rope.

 

I hope that you did not use any of your hexes'n such on that structure. We need to preserve these rare resources, and to follow the rules to avoid any undue attention.

 

Erden.

 

[ 05-05-2002, 06:30 PM: Message edited by: erden ]

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Placements Mike. Placements. Anywhere along the bottom of Index lower wall. Don't get high. Er, don't get higher than you want to fall. Place, clip in a long runner, stand in it while you are watching your piece. Does it move? Does it smack you in the face? Does it do you the way you like it?

Then top rope an aid climb. This will force you to twist and curse and finally get that hard to place piece.

When this seems easy, Lead something you can free solo to get the rythm man. Then start pushing the grades up a little bit at a time.

I have fewer climbing friends than I used to. Be careful.

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quote:

Originally posted by slothrop:

Hey Dru, how come the Russian guy at Climb On in Squamish hates your beloved Tri-cams? I went in there a while ago wanting to get one to play around with, but he went off on a tirade about how much they suck.

He's not Russian he's Czech and he hates normal cams too, he only likes nuts.

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quote:

Originally posted by fern:

quote:

Originally posted by slothrop:

Hey Dru, how come the Russian guy at Climb On in Squamish hates your beloved Tri-cams? I went in there a while ago wanting to get one to play around with, but he went off on a tirade about how much they suck.

He's not Russian he's Czech and he hates normal cams too, he only likes nuts.

Except for Robots [Roll Eyes]

 

Fern it was a good thing you admitted to soloing Diamonds and Spades and not Fern Gully... [Razz]

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Jason Martins comment about leapfrogging belays every 5m up an easy crack sounds to me like an invitation to factor-2 fall onto a belay [Eek!] for newbies. In principle good idea but I'd say set up belays every 10m or so so you get a few good pieces in before you belay.

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Dru is correct... Looking back at my earlier post I realize I did not mention to plug in a piece or two between the short belays. This is an important step. But I do stand by the fact that super short pitches are an excellent way to learn about leading and building anchors in preperation for a much longer climb.

 

Jason

 

[ 05-08-2002, 01:31 PM: Message edited by: Jason Martin ]

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Just an idea but since I have been crawling on every square foot of rock on Erie, your best bet is to print out Dru's Squamish ticklist and learn there. The cracks suck up more pro then you'll be carrying and many of the trad climbs on Erie, while rated moderate, can get runout.

 

My significant other learned trad by first seconding my climbs and then by tooling around at the bottom with cracks, holes, etc. and having me check her placements.

 

If your heart is set on Erie, there is a great 5.7-8 crack in Shady Hollow Area, also Jack of Diamonds on the Upper Wall, after the first 15-feet of a 5.9 boulder problem, protects easilly but take a number on the weekends. And then there is Leaning Crack on Powerline Wall, along with a route to the right (from the bottom)of Tindall's Terror.

 

And if you think I'm going to tell you about the other lesser-known crags up there, then I'll be running around with Son o' Caveman in bras and panties with my A-cup going clinkity-cling!!

 

P.S. Slot gear early and often when you're learning. OR not and then there is one less person crowding the crags.

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quote:

Originally posted by Dru:

Fern it was a good thing you admitted to soloing Diamonds and Spades and not Fern Gully...
[Razz]

who says I haven't? ... sometimes you don't have a partner handy and you just wanna get up something [Moon]

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quote:

Originally posted by fern:

quote:

Originally posted by Dru:

Fern it was a good thing you admitted to soloing Diamonds and Spades and not Fern Gully...
[Razz]

who says I haven't? ... sometimes you don't have a partner handy and you just wanna get up something
[Moon]
huh every time i walk by that route there are 2 bumblies and a dog top roping [Razz] im surprised you were able to find a quiet period to tick it solo [Wink]

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