Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
marc_leclerc

[TR] Getting Worked on Squamish Rock! - 2/7/2010

Recommended Posts

Trip: Getting Worked on Squamish Rock! -

 

Date: 2/7/2010

 

Trip Report:

So the weather was looking pretty magnificent for climbing in Squamish on the weekend. So Tamara, Brandon and I teamed up with keen photographer Scott Pick again to climb in Squamish. Tamara and I got a ride out to Scott's friday night and crashed on the floor then we headed to the Squamish. Tamara grabbed some cofee in Sarbucks where I met Stanhope and Trotter and chatted route beta for a while before heading to the bluffs.

Tamara all psyched to get the first lead of the trip led a little 5.9 crack by the Neat and Cool crag then I warmed up by leading Kangaroo Corner, which Tamara styled on TR.

 

Brandon and his friend Karie (climbing for her second time ever!) met us at Neat and Cool and while they did Layback Flake I led 'Flying Circus' for the fist time. Its pretty fun! Tamara cruised up after me, then keen to lead again she cruised up 'Cornflakes' a blocky 5.7 right nearby. She was supposed to just plractice plcaing gear.. but put like 3 peices in the whole 25 meter route :rolleyes:

 

Now it was time for business, I set up a TR on a 5.13b R route called 'Bruce Lee V.s the Kiss Army' which climbs the wall just left of 'Neat and cool' up to a scoop, then makes hard bouldery moves to an arete and hard mantle to easy ground. Andrew Boyd put this line up taking the lob from the arete 3 times, just skimming the ground below, before sending. But I was TR so I needed not worry about such things as of yet. My first attempt got me up into the thumb gastons in the overhanging scoop then I fell trying to match on the arete. I kept trying and trying the cruxiest section over and over again till I had the moves. the did it all from the ground again, taking only a couple falls this time. Its going to take some real work on getting it dialed in before I try and lead it, I'm not into decking into pointy rocks from 50ft.

 

Afterwards I tried to lead an easier little 12b seam called 'Diddly Squat' at Pixie Corner. I almost sent on my first lead attempts, then teetered backwards at an easy balance move. On my second go I fell before getting my second peice in and came really close to decking. I was so tired from doing the crux of the 13b 25 times i figured I might as well finish the day off by just 3rd classing Pixie Corner and not frustrating myself on the 12b.

 

After dinner at Little Ceaser's Pizza and an uncomfortable sleep in the tiny tent I awoke to cloudy skies and drizzle. the plan had been to go climb The Underfling on the Grand Wall with Brandon but we decided to hike to Cobra Crack instead hoping that the overhang would keep it dry. unfortunately we arrived at the route to find it seeping badly but we decided to play on it anyways as we had hiked all the way up there. I aided the route (C2) to set directionals tehn we gave it a go on toprope. Brandon couldn't quite get the initial thin moves into the corner. but I managed to stem the wet corner (with a couple falls of course) and jam my way up to the jug before the crux section. With wet feet and slippery fingers I only managed to make 3 more moves in the overhanging finger crack before completely greasing out. But I checked out all the locks and they are quite good. I can't get my fingerin the mono undercling but I can pull the lip on a different thumbs down two finger lock to reach the better jams above the lip. It is simply the best finger crack I have been on in my life! I can't wait to try it more when it stops seeping, I know I can use all the locks and do the moves, but linking ot will be a different story, can't wait to see how it plays out though!

 

We quickly ate at White Spot then drove home. I got my new ice tools too! Too abd all the ice here is long gone!

Pics!

 

4340168260_67b1883d0b_b.jpg

 

4339426221_bdb9548c30_b.jpg

Tamara walks some 5.9 short finger crack..

 

4340170984_7ce44bcf95_b.jpg

 

4339428153_1ce47d350e_b.jpg

 

4339433135_728b687cc9_b.jpg

 

Flying Circus

 

4339431741_494d14ab35_b.jpg

 

the Scene

 

4339441615_fc625e1ecd_b.jpg

 

4340188144_8ba5f79eab_b.jpg

 

Tamara cruises up Cornflakes....

 

 

4339449189_28f0ae1a77_b.jpg

 

4340194554_07d29f1ac2_b.jpg

 

4340197074_bf68407b61_b.jpg

 

4340203548_3e0c89627f_b.jpg

 

4340199608_482c5ed609_b.jpg

 

 

Bruce Lee Vs. the Kiss Army

 

 

4339474811_cfcccde526_b.jpg

 

4340225060_56186d7c0a_b.jpg

 

4339481407_f3c486b4a6_b.jpg

 

diddly Squat + falling off...

 

Pixie Corner cool down.. it was like 15 degrees! Celcius that is :)

 

I'll try and get the couple Cobra Shots up later...

Edited by marc_leclerc

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Trip: Getting Worked on Squamish Rock! -

 

Date: 2/7/2010

 

Trip Report:

 

 

... On my second go I fell and hit Tamara in the head, before getting my second peice in. Tamara decided to pull in slack instead of moving out of the way, so that I didn't deck... What a thoughtful gesture... :rolleyes:

 

 

 

 

4340225060_56186d7c0a_b.jpg

 

4339481407_f3c486b4a6_b.jpg

 

diddly Squat + falling off...

 

I thought I should correct his story a bit.... :kisss:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Afterwards I tried to lead an easier little 12b seam called 'Diddly Squat' at Pixie Corner. I almost sent on my first lead attempts, then teetered backwards at an easy balance move.

 

Wait, shouldnt it have read more low key,

 

"after toproping the route I thought I had it dialed, so I preplaced the draws and went for the send, unfortunately Jmace walked up and I fell after the first bolt"

 

hahahahhah just razzin ya, good to see you and T out!

 

now that you got new tools there is no way the ice is coming back

 

J

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The White Spot and Little Caesars? Good to see you are treating your gal to some of Canada's top culinary offerings.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

WTF, dude could be sitting in the Chief lot, in the shade, in the rain with her eating cold mcdonalds hotcakes with a piton.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice day out guys. Might want to invest in a helmet for the gf's cranium especially if she is learning to lead.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
That would totally mess up the hair dood.

 

yeah, what's the point in climbing unless you look good :mistat:;)

 

but then you're always tired cuz you got up at 5 AM to have a shower and do your makeup for a 7 o clock start.... :lmao:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
That would totally mess up the hair dood.

 

yeah, what's the point in climbing unless you look good :mistat:;)

 

but then you're always tired cuz you got up at 5 AM to have a shower and do your makeup for a 7 o clock start.... :lmao:

 

 

that's what Starbucks is for. and thanks to my need of it you got to meet stanhope and trotter.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

but then you're always tired cuz you got up at 5 AM to have a shower and do your makeup for a 7 o clock start...

 

and thanks to my need of it you got to meet stanhope and trotter.

 

hmm cute girlfriend all dolled up hanging out with sponsored climbers... I dunno doesnt look good to me

 

:)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm pretty happy with the photos that I took 'cause I was fighting a cold and almost bailed on the trip. I never realized that spending all day outside then sleeping in a car then spending the next day hiking in cold winter rain was a cure for the common cold. Go figure....last time I did this I got pnuemonia :)

 

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I'm pretty happy with the photos that I took 'cause I was fighting a cold and almost bailed on the trip. I never realized that spending all day outside then sleeping in a car then spending the next day hiking in cold winter rain was a cure for the common cold. Go figure....last time I did this I got pnuemonia :)

 

 

 

Looks like you've got a nice camera too?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×