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ivan

attaching slings to protection

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Allison - but it is the girth hitch. Self deception is your greatest talent.

I recently had an encounter of the MAZAMA kind - anyone wish to spray on.......I think they girth hitch everything!

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quote:

Originally posted by Retrosaurus:

To hold nuts in opposition.To shorten a runner.I am sure there are other uses, but these come to mind quickly.

I knew Freeclimb was an academician. Hopefully he will post his climbing schedule with the mountaineers on their website so that we can avoid being involved in the rescue/recovery/clusterfuck.
[laf][Moon]

I agree with Dru - there is no reason to girth hitch to a carabiner. It greatly increases the chances of the sling getting unclipped. For the two uses you mention, Retrosaurus, I think a clove hitch is a much better choice.

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quote:

Originally posted by Retrosaurus:

To hold nuts in opposition.To shorten a runner.I am sure there are other uses, but these come to mind quickly.

I knew Freeclimb was an academician. Hopefully he will post his climbing schedule with the mountaineers on their website so that we can avoid being involved in the rescue/recovery/clusterfuck.
[laf][Moon]

You gotta point there Mitch, but allison is never gonna have to do that stuff sportclimbing...im surprised she has ever even had to girth hitch... what happened to the world of preplaced draws and consumer length customized clipping stances?? wink.gif" border="0

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quote:

Originally posted by Colin:
For the two uses you mention, Retrosaurus, I think a clove hitch is a much better choice.

Oops, you are right. That is the knot that I use.

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i prefer to climb with smaller partners so incase i do run out of gear or whatever i can have them zipped up to me, at that point i try to equalize their neck and other male compoents with one spectra sling, a regular webing sling and 13 seperate biners all made from seperate manufactors.......slave labor, prison labor and labor of love are all factors in my choice of biners......

this sytems works well as it teaches me the pateience i need whilst choosing parterns for those harder more runout routes.....i will be the fat one on the sharp end......

and i came up with that with 80 community college credits, a asa autobody and refinnish tech course.....and all 4 harry potter books.....

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quote:

Originally posted by erik:
i prefer to climb with smaller partners so incase i do run out of gear or whatever i can have them zipped up to me, at that point i try to equalize their neck and other male compoents with one spectra sling, a regular webing sling and 13 seperate biners all made from seperate manufactors.......slave labor, prison labor and labor of love are all factors in my choice of biners......

this sytems works well as it teaches me the pateience i need whilst choosing parterns for those harder more runout routes.....i will be the fat one on the sharp end......

and i came up with that with 80 community college credits, a asa autobody and refinnish tech course.....and all 4 harry potter books.....

i found that once, climbing with a partner with prosthetic limbs, you could leave limbs detached behind you as pro points. those artificial hands can be used in many spots - fist jam or finger jam in cracks or crimpin on a small edge. im surprised wild country, BD and split'her gear do not make lines of prosthetic hands for pro....

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quote:

Originally posted by Dru:
i found that once, climbing with a partner with prosthetic limbs, you could leave limbs detached behind you as pro points. those artificial hands can be used in many spots - fist jam or finger jam in cracks or crimpin on a small edge. im surprised wild country, BD and split'her gear do not make lines of prosthetic hands for pro....

OK, OK. But I am NOT giving up my erotic plastic novelties.

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ivan

original question: "girth hitch wires?". You then noted information overload. Welcome to the Internet! Everyone here is pretty much saying the same thing, as you note.

mitch comments: "Honestly, the most dangerous shit I've ever seen done on crags and in the mountains was done by engineers. Of course they were also graduates of the Mountaineers Course."

I agree, though most are not graduates of Mounties Course, rather BOEALPS people. I can tell you that I don't typically comment on peoples personal set ups in the mountains, but the few times I have tried, I was bitch-slapped down by Boeing engineers who had "done the calculations". I climb with some BOEALPS folks and highly respect their abilities, so this is not a general slam, but those few times I have encountered the very-closed minded engineering 'tude, its been Boeing.

Finally, Ivan, welcome to Portand (soon!) I trust you will find the NW an awesome place to climb!

Alex

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quote:

Originally posted by Retrosaurus:

I knew Freeclimb was an academician.

There you go jumping to conclusions again. I'm a professional big game fisherman (last year, anyways).

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quote:

Originally posted by fern:

Maybe ANAM gives no examples of accident resulting from girth hitching to cable, but taking this thread as an example, most of us know better than to use that method in a life-dependent situation. I am not surprised that there are no reports of death due to a technique that basically no-one practices anyways.

fern,the girth-hitch IS used frequently. Just about every nail-up wall will offer a shallow placement where a tie-off will be made. Freeclimbing routes may have convenient trees, or bushes. Many people girth-hitch gear placements. I suggest sewn spectra for the task. If you can find it, the core of 5mm spectra cord can be used for short tie-offs on aid routes to maximize reach for the next placement. That shit is tough: direct hammer blows won't cut it. But it doesn't take a knot very well. A double, or triple fisherman's is a start. I've backed that up with sewing just to be sure it doesn't slip.ciao

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quote:

Originally posted by Retrosaurus:

a lemming

Mitch,can you contribute constructively, or are you limited to name-calling? You've described me --in combination-- as a stupid, lemming, academic? What does this mean in terms of the rumored dangerousness of a girth-hitch? My memory of visits to the Wenatchee area have been clouded by beer. Have we met? I digress (it must be contagious). Back to the anxiousness revolving around the girth-hitch. Here's a cut section from http://www.fishproducts.com/tech/webbing.html"Looks like girth-hitched spectra runners fail at 14kN or less. That's something to watch out for . . .(FISH Note: 14kn = 3147 lbs. What are we watching out for again?)"

That's a good point that hasn't been recognized by many folks posting within this thread: To repeat the Russ Walling quote, "What are we watching out for again?"

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Why dont all you meatheads put a girth hitch on each other's necks and bounce test for a while. I am going to girth hitch my next Guinned can and slug it. Later pansies [Moon]

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Ray,Guiness from a can? You are a degenerate.

Free,I will chill on the name calling. But realize that I am here primarily for the entertainment value. Hitching nylon onto wire is still stupid, for reasons obvious to "almost" everyone. And hitching nylon to nylon (or other runners with even lower melting points)when there is a possibility of whipping hard is only slightly less stupid. I think that was constructive. Can I go back to name calling now? I'm bored with this thread now and so is everyone else.

[ 03-20-2002: Message edited by: Retrosaurus ]

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quote:

Originally posted by Retrosaurus:
Freeclimb9 is obviously one of those stupid engineers. Maybe he should move to Virginia too. Maybe they are related; cousins or brothers or both.

Honestly, the most dangerous shit I've ever seen done on crags and in the mountains was done by engineers. Of course they were also graduates of the Mountaineers Course.

Mitch,I've been in this climbing game for twenty years, and have rarely heard, or read, of gear failures. Do have an illustrative example of a webbing failure? I used the specs of the webbing and girth-hitch tests to illustrate the absurdness of some folks hyperbole (Did you know that the water knot reduces the strength of webbing to an amount comparable to a girth hitch? Is this keeping people up at night with angst and worry?). I guess the information didn't take. So who's the "stupid" one? At this point, ignorance isn't an excuse.With regard to education, I've got a Doctorate in Chemical Physics from the University of Arizona. But common sense and a modicum of knowledge of Newtonian mechanics is all that's needed to understande gear strength limitations. But some epistemolgical investigation would dispel doubt also. The AAC keeps records of this type of shit. Become informed.

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Retro,

Guinness from the can or bottle is better than no Guinness. OH yeah I am a bonafide degenerate but this degenerate has drank it from the brewery in Ireland on the destruction tour! [big Drink]

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I saw a recipie for an espresso martini last night. gonna try that one on friday [big Drink]

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quote:

Originally posted by rayborbon:
Dru,

Those are good. Yummy! All the alcohol rushes to the brain quickly!

i like bein'drunk with caffiene rush at the same time. wakey wakey sleepy sleepy all at once then sum chronic to mellow it all out. actually that sounds a lot like work wink.gif" border="0

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Ok; If you take a 186 lb chunk of railroad track and hoist it 75 ft. up a tree and at about 50 ft up you anchor a old chounaird #8 stopper and too that you girth hitch a 24 in 1/2 in new dry nylon runner tied with a water knot with 4 in tails, and to that you clip an old chouinard oval, and you secure the 11mm dynamic rope (retired) to the base of the tree, and you drop the railroad tie,you get...

a BIG PIECE OF STEEL EMBEDDED IN THE GROUND, AND A RUNNER THAT SNAPPED,YOU GUESSED IT, AT THE GIRTH HITCH!

its not "scientifical", its REAL world!!! [Moon]

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quote:

Originally posted by freeclimb9:
There you go jumping to conclusions again. I'm a professional big game fisherman (last year, anyways).

Proffessional troller anyways. rolleyes.gif" border="0

Guys who drink beer from cans are trying to be enivronmentally conciencious, we don't want to have to waste water and soap washing the glass.

[big Drink]

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quote:

Originally posted by Bronco:

Proffessional [sic] troller anyways.

Live Bait trolled at about 2.5 knots is the winning combination. Preferably skipjack (the bait of choice for the Man in the Bluesuit), but YFT at around 20lbs works too. Some can get lucky with artificial lures trolled at 10-12 knots, but the hookup ratio sucks.

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