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climbercam

first ascent [TR] Strathcona Provincial Park, Vancouver Island, B.C. - Black Knight (FA) 8/21/2009

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Trip: Strathcona Provincial Park, Vancouver Island, B.C. - Black Knight (FA)

 

Date: 8/21/2009

 

Trip Report:

A climb from summer 09'

 

Mission: To climb Paupers Buttress, 300m 5.7, or put up something new. Paupers Buttress is on the Queens Face, next to Kings Peak. Located in Strathcona Provincial Park, Vancouver Island, British Columbia.

 

Left after work Friday, August 21st. Drove to the Kings Peak trailhead. Got to the trailhead about 6pm, and got to the lower meadow around 7:30pm. Beautiful weather, with the exception of a faint Smokey smell, complements of forest fires to the South-East.

 

Set up camp, had dinner, and prepped out gear for the following morning, which according to the weather reports, was going to be balmy.

 

August 22nd, 5am: Up for breakfast and last minute gear checks.

 

5:30am: Hiking to upper meadow, then took the gully towards the hikers ridge, then about 2/3's of the way up, you cut up a short 15' rock band, and your on the lower moraine. This saves from needless 3rd class up the foot of the moraine.

 

Handrailed the ramparts (on the right) and made our way to the toe of the glacier.

 

7:00am: Roped up for the short crossing. Global warming stole about 50 feet of glacier since last summer. Quite disappointing.

 

7:45am: Base of buttress, now all we had to do was to choose which corner system we wanted to take. We chose the furthest one, roped up and set off.

 

Heres a breakdown of the pitches:

 

P1: (5.9) Head up the corner, when it ends, traverse right, and belay from small corner (small gear in belay)

 

P2: Head right and up small grassy gully, making an exposed hop onto the arete on the right. Continue straight up. Belay from tree.

 

P3: Continue up grassy broken 4/5th class and belay from one of many trees.

 

P4: Head straight up. # 2 Camalot in horizontal just off the belay, then up right on small step. Continue up and build belay in small "half-moon" flake.

 

P5: Go up steep 12ft. high wall directly above belay. Head up, trending left, away from obvious arete on the right. Top-out on the huge ledge. Belay by slinging massive block on ledge.

 

P6: Go right for exposed and loose traverse through huge gully. Go right and up 10' wall (red camalot) and go right, and belay from horn. Should still be able to see last belay.

 

P7: Go straight up, small pro. 30m pitch, to gear belay.

 

P8: Up to right facing corner. Pull on top of arete on the left. a 6" offwidth awaits you. I placed 2 chockstones in crack to help. Climb this, and climb a ramp leading left on good rock. Grey alien finger crack, follow that to the summit!

 

On the route at 8am and at the summit around 2pm.

 

And I'll try to include some pictures.

 

Lower meadow Campsite

5732_134563683059_536168059_3255619_6357325_n.jpg

 

Last minute business before getting on the glacier.

5732_134563688059_536168059_3255620_4359237_n.jpg

 

Paupers Buttress (in the middle)

5732_134563693059_536168059_3255621_2333278_n.jpg

 

Looking towards the arete and some other routes

5732_134563728059_536168059_3255627_137241_n.jpg

 

A glance down

5732_134563723059_536168059_3255626_1173452_n.jpg

 

Kings Peak from mid-route

5732_134563738059_536168059_3255628_4877146_n.jpg

 

Looking down from the summit

5732_134563773059_536168059_3255635_8214177_n.jpg

 

Good day!

5732_134563793059_536168059_3255639_6923941_n.jpg

 

Smoke blurred view of Colonel Foster (7000')

5732_134563803059_536168059_3255641_4582069_n.jpg

 

Overall, super good trip. Lots more to come!

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

Rack:

1 set Aliens

.75 -> 2 Camalots

1 set offset stoppers

1 set Superlight rocks

12 extendable draws

Handfull of misc. Pins & hammer

60m rope & 8mm tagline

 

Approach Notes:

2.5 to 3 hours to lower meadow. Approx. 1.5 to base.

 

 

Edited by climbercam

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Nice! My first time ever roped up was on Kings Peak. Long time ago now that I think of it. :) Nice views from up high around there, and an easy approach by Island standards...

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