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first ascent [TR] Strathcona Provincial Park, Vancouver Island, B.C. - Black Knight (FA) 8/21/2009

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Trip: Strathcona Provincial Park, Vancouver Island, B.C. - Black Knight (FA)


Date: 8/21/2009


Trip Report:

A climb from summer 09'


Mission: To climb Paupers Buttress, 300m 5.7, or put up something new. Paupers Buttress is on the Queens Face, next to Kings Peak. Located in Strathcona Provincial Park, Vancouver Island, British Columbia.


Left after work Friday, August 21st. Drove to the Kings Peak trailhead. Got to the trailhead about 6pm, and got to the lower meadow around 7:30pm. Beautiful weather, with the exception of a faint Smokey smell, complements of forest fires to the South-East.


Set up camp, had dinner, and prepped out gear for the following morning, which according to the weather reports, was going to be balmy.


August 22nd, 5am: Up for breakfast and last minute gear checks.


5:30am: Hiking to upper meadow, then took the gully towards the hikers ridge, then about 2/3's of the way up, you cut up a short 15' rock band, and your on the lower moraine. This saves from needless 3rd class up the foot of the moraine.


Handrailed the ramparts (on the right) and made our way to the toe of the glacier.


7:00am: Roped up for the short crossing. Global warming stole about 50 feet of glacier since last summer. Quite disappointing.


7:45am: Base of buttress, now all we had to do was to choose which corner system we wanted to take. We chose the furthest one, roped up and set off.


Heres a breakdown of the pitches:


P1: (5.9) Head up the corner, when it ends, traverse right, and belay from small corner (small gear in belay)


P2: Head right and up small grassy gully, making an exposed hop onto the arete on the right. Continue straight up. Belay from tree.


P3: Continue up grassy broken 4/5th class and belay from one of many trees.


P4: Head straight up. # 2 Camalot in horizontal just off the belay, then up right on small step. Continue up and build belay in small "half-moon" flake.


P5: Go up steep 12ft. high wall directly above belay. Head up, trending left, away from obvious arete on the right. Top-out on the huge ledge. Belay by slinging massive block on ledge.


P6: Go right for exposed and loose traverse through huge gully. Go right and up 10' wall (red camalot) and go right, and belay from horn. Should still be able to see last belay.


P7: Go straight up, small pro. 30m pitch, to gear belay.


P8: Up to right facing corner. Pull on top of arete on the left. a 6" offwidth awaits you. I placed 2 chockstones in crack to help. Climb this, and climb a ramp leading left on good rock. Grey alien finger crack, follow that to the summit!


On the route at 8am and at the summit around 2pm.


And I'll try to include some pictures.


Lower meadow Campsite



Last minute business before getting on the glacier.



Paupers Buttress (in the middle)



Looking towards the arete and some other routes



A glance down



Kings Peak from mid-route



Looking down from the summit



Good day!



Smoke blurred view of Colonel Foster (7000')



Overall, super good trip. Lots more to come!




Gear Notes:


1 set Aliens

.75 -> 2 Camalots

1 set offset stoppers

1 set Superlight rocks

12 extendable draws

Handfull of misc. Pins & hammer

60m rope & 8mm tagline


Approach Notes:

2.5 to 3 hours to lower meadow. Approx. 1.5 to base.



Edited by climbercam

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Nice! My first time ever roped up was on Kings Peak. Long time ago now that I think of it. :) Nice views from up high around there, and an easy approach by Island standards...

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