Dane Posted January 31, 2010 Share Posted January 31, 2010 (edited) Trip: Source lake - Flow Reversal Date: 1/30/2010 Trip Report: Simply one of the best ice routes in Washington. And it seems to always come into shape....in one version or another. Flow Reversal, Feb. 15 '09 Flow Reversal Jan 30 '10 Rafael Haroutunian leading the crux after I drafted in his trail breaking all morning Ratings can be all over the map on this one, WI 5R, M5, 3 to 5 pitches can be had, or it can be WI6-R and no M rating or if you are lucky WI5-R and no rock. It is a water ice climb in an alpine environment so it is all about conditions. Today they were good. Gear Notes: Depends on the amount of ice. 3 raps to get off, one v thread and two trees. New tat and rings left today, Approach Notes: Get someone else to post hole up the hill for you...hopefull another climbing party going elsewhere on the buttress No one else showed today Rating drops two points if you have a boot track to the alcove. Edited February 3, 2010 by Dane Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne Posted January 31, 2010 Share Posted January 31, 2010 Wow, Nice! Anyone want to go do this on tuesday? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peakpimp Posted January 31, 2010 Share Posted January 31, 2010 Nice job Dane! Looks hard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sol Posted January 31, 2010 Share Posted January 31, 2010 Nice man! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dane Posted January 31, 2010 Author Share Posted January 31, 2010 Thanks guys and a little more stokage for you The money is on the 2nd pitch. And every time I'm reminded that it is one of the most fun sections of steep ice I have done anywhere, ever! The 2nd pitch is just over 100' but always well worth the walk. The other two pitches are around 130' each and neither of them give aways. Roger Strong and Chad Kellogg on an early ascent. Shows much of pitch 1 & 2. Photo from a similar position on the snice yesterday conditions looking down from mid pitch 2 with better ice. And the third pitch in lean conditions mid February last year. And Pu high on the first pitch last year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocketparrotlet Posted February 1, 2010 Share Posted February 1, 2010 So Snoqualmie Pass ice is in? When we were up in McClellan Butte North Couloir, there were a couple 8-foot high flows and the ice seemed pretty rotten. Is there any WI2-3 in? -Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edlinger Posted February 1, 2010 Share Posted February 1, 2010 (edited) Trip: Source lake - Flow Reversal Date: 1/30/2010 Trip Report: it can be WI6-R WI6 R rated? Edited February 1, 2010 by Edlinger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevino Posted February 1, 2010 Share Posted February 1, 2010 Sure it can be WI6 after an earthquake makes the entire cliff over hanging. Judging by the photos Dane was on the WI5 version this winter, and perhaps the WI5+R one last year...but what do I know, montana and wyoming messed up my logic! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dane Posted February 1, 2010 Author Share Posted February 1, 2010 Some editing going on above....thought for a moment it was JK speed editing again. How about less of the typical CC.com spray and you just go climb the damn thing and worry about the rating later. Flow Reversal is simply one of the best ice routes in Wa. and well worth doing no matter what the rating. But FR is barely 100m of climbing generally and hardly worth a long conversation. Here is a good read on point: http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2010/01/conditions.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Kidd Posted February 1, 2010 Share Posted February 1, 2010 Nice lookin route Dane. Getting hungry for some Rockies ice? Sounds like from your upcoming spring adventure that some mixed wouldn't be a terrible idea. Sending a PM. -Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dane Posted February 1, 2010 Author Share Posted February 1, 2010 Starved Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmace Posted February 1, 2010 Share Posted February 1, 2010 But FR is barely 100m of climbing generally and hardly worth a long conversation. then just post the pics, conditions and banter from the most recent trip so people can decide if they should hit it or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dane Posted February 1, 2010 Author Share Posted February 1, 2010 For once we agree..so I did a little editing myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevino Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 (edited) Sorry Dane, I should have added an asterik next to my comment saying that I only ski and spray, no more climbing for me! (Both of which I do poorly, apparently!) Edited February 2, 2010 by kevino Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne Posted February 3, 2010 Share Posted February 3, 2010 You should reconsider, Dane, Josh and got to do this amazing route today . It is fat and happy! Tr supplement to follow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dane Posted February 3, 2010 Author Share Posted February 3, 2010 This thing is building...no one told FR that winter is over. 4 today and it may hit a 3 before it falls down in March. Someone is bound to ski it sooner or later Great day out in the sun with Wayne and Josh. Thanks the boot pack guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne Posted February 3, 2010 Share Posted February 3, 2010 (edited) Dane, working on the video, Got any good pics or vid? waynewallace2@ gmail Edited February 3, 2010 by wayne1112 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peakpimp Posted February 3, 2010 Share Posted February 3, 2010 What an amazing line! And with perfect weather too. Thanks guys I had fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmace Posted February 3, 2010 Share Posted February 3, 2010 or if you are lucky WI5-R and no rock. WI6 R to a 4 and maybe a 3 is just amazing, you guys must be more than just lucky! Good one!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rafael_H Posted February 3, 2010 Share Posted February 3, 2010 Not at all, it's 6 that's absent and sorely missed! To me anyway... Sat conditions were quite good in fact, the angle and configuration were easy, but ice - quite chandeliered, laminated and thin in places. Just too short, and no worm-hole to Banff... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigeo Posted February 5, 2010 Share Posted February 5, 2010 Can't wait. Single or double rope raps? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne Posted February 6, 2010 Share Posted February 6, 2010 Single, then double from trees just left of route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dane Posted February 11, 2010 Author Share Posted February 11, 2010 Or three singles on a 60 will just barely make it as well with a little stretch. 1st pitch [video:youtube] [video:youtube] the 2nd pitch belay stance......popping sounds are ice hitting the camera [video:youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ryLYjVUQV50 and then 2nd pitch.. 2/10/2010 about 1pm. [video:youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VrnxUS0r0aQ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne Posted February 12, 2010 Share Posted February 12, 2010 Cool! Who where you there with? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dane Posted February 12, 2010 Author Share Posted February 12, 2010 Buddy from Sweden and uiaa guide in the past, Oscar Fors. Swedes, Armenians, crazed meat cutters and Idaho red neck cousins, who else would climb ice in WA? Rafael Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.