carolyn Posted February 14, 2002 Share Posted February 14, 2002 alright, so I feel bad asking this question NOW , after I have already belayed many leads. However i would hate to have someone get hurt because I didnt ask. So.... The first time I was asked to belay a leader I was told to keep enough slack in the rope in order to not pull them off. The person leading, and those who I have belayed since then probly had falling furthest from their mind (as they were climbing something way below their level). Common sense says to brake if they fall. Well, reading johnny's post on mind control some people talked a little more about belaying. It made me wonder if I was missing some knowledge that would prevent the leader from further injury in the case of a fall. examples: quote: by chuck:did your belayer take in rope while you were falling? That can cause the falling climber to whip into the wall harder and quote: by allison:I will say that we were all new enough that we didnt have the 'dynamic catch' in our belaying repetoires at that point. I know how to do it now, tho... Also, it was mentioned a few times about falling and hitting your belayer. I was recently taught to belay (on ice and I imagine it could be useful for rock as well) off an anchor (tree, screws, etc) vs your harness. THe reasoning...if a large chunk of ice comes falling (or person ) you can still hold onto the rope and move far away. I really dont see that being much different than if you are belaying off your harness, tho. In addition, if you had to get help for some reason you would be able to get out of the system and lock your partner off. Not something you can do while belaying off your harness too easily. Just wondering what others think of this and pro's/con's Im missing before I make a decision to belay this way or not. Thanks! [ 02-13-2002: Message edited by: carolyn ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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