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Backpacking trip suggestions for NCNP or ONP


Das Beerd

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A group of us are heading up to Washington in late August and looking to do a 30-50 mile backpacking trip in either North Cascades or the Olympics. We've never been to either so I was hoping you guys might offer some suggested routes that would be the best way to see each park and maybe talk me into one park over the other.

 

Peak-bagging along the route would be an added bonus but a few of the guys are inexperienced so it would have to be non-technical.

 

Any advice is much appreciated. Thanks!

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My thoughts with regard to your statement that some members are inexperienced (how much so is unclear) suggests the following:

 

While the Ptarmigan Traverse is an extraorinary trip through the Glacier Peak Wilderness (actually only a little bit at the Northern start begins in the North Cascades National Park.

The P Traverse does require some understanding of crevasse rescue ability and occasionally steepish snow and glacier travel, which for many necessitates roped travel. Ton's of moderately experienced (or better) parties complete it.

 

Good longer trail trips (with peak bagging opportunities enroute)in NCNP are Thunder Creek Trail up and over Parkcreek Pass then down the Park Creek Trail to the Stekekin Road/Trail. And the Hannegan Pass Trail to Hannegan Pass and down into the Chilliwak River Trail then up to Whatcom Pass and down one of either Little or Big Beaver Trails to Ross Lake. This trip provides peak bagging opportunities in the vicinities of the passes mentioned.

 

As Gene stated, the Hoh Valley Trail to Mt. Olympus is doubtless great, however I have no personal experience with it.

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Forget the Olympics, go to the N. Cascades if you want the most bang for your sweat (I know others may argue, but to each their own). The Olympus area is great and all, but it isn't the North Cascades.

 

Whatcom Pass is pretty much where you should be looking to travel through in NCNP, IMHO. It wouldn't be a bad idea to have an east side option just in case the weather turns. The Crest Trail north of Rainy Pass is a good one . . .

 

I'd recommend going to wta.org or nwhikers.net, this site won't be of much use for backpacking information (unless you like lots of spray) .. . Have a great trip, just don't show many people back home the pictures- unless it rains the whole time. :wave:

 

 

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i would recommend the N cascades as well, for reasons stated above (most bang for your buck). Others may make a case for the olympics but in my mind the olympic range compared to the north cascades is like comparing the smokey mountains of Tennessee to the white mountains of New Hampshire. Not sure if those have any context for you, but while the smokies are great, the whites bang more of an impression, in my view. (ie: if i had to backpack in either for a week, I'd do the whites in a heartbeat, many times over)

 

 

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Get a copy of "Don't Waste Your Time in the North Cascades" by Kathy and Craig Copeland. Despite the title (sounds like they're saying 'don't go there', doesn't it) it's an excellent guide to dayhikes and backpacking trips, with trail ratings from Premier down to "Don't Do". In other words, if you do go to the North Cascades, they're trying to give you the most bang for your buck, to help you get the most out of your trip. The book is extremely thorough, all the information you need on where to go and how to get there, permits, trail and backcountry hazards, mileages, elevations, difficulty, crowdedness, etc.

 

I'd also have to offer a strong second to Water's recommendation, although I love the Olympics, the North Cascades is hands down the best choice if you've never been out here.

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i second what dan miller and others have said about hannegan pass to ross lake. ruth mountain is a fun easy glacier climb near hannegan pass. and the views of the northern picket range from whatcom pass are epic. i did this 60 mile trip (with side trips) over labor day weekend and didn't see a soul the whole time.awesome mix of high alpine and deep dank forest. like others, i heartily recommend the north cascades over the olympics...not sure what the buzz is all about, olympics wise.

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Ther following two loops in the Glacier Peak Wilderness are absolutely beautiful. Both are nontechnical but generally above treeline through endless meadows.

 

On the west side, starting near Darrington, Lost Creek Ridge-> White Chuck River -> Red,White /Sauk Passes -> Pilot Ridge. Certainly the first half of this loop is not very popular.

 

On the east side, starting north of Lake Wenatchee, Phelps Creek -> Spider Gap -> Lyman Lakes -> Cloudy Pass -> Buck Creek Pass then out or keeping going over -> High Pass -> Napeequa River -> Little Giant Pass. The first half is swamped the second not so much.

 

Definitely go to nwhikers for detail on these or other suggestions.

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hannegan pass to ross lake looks pretty sweet from what I can tell. I haven't checked milage on that but I'm guessing that would be a shuttle trip rather than an out-and-back? We're only going to have one car so that probably wouldn't work for us if it is.

 

Thanks for all the info though. Good stuff!

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Not to disagree with above suggestions & views, but a general point about Olympics is, there are considerably more opportunities for loop-type hikes of reasonably short duration on well-marked trails than in North Cascades.

 

Also, there is a fair possibility that when somebody says 30-50 miles, they'd be happy with 20-30 miles.

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Yeah, definitely stay out of the Olympics, nothing to see there. Nothing to see.

 

If you do happen to wander out that way, maybe to visit the ocean beach and then hike above treeline in the same day, I'd suggest the Bailey Range for some good easy peak bagging options, or a South to North or North to South hike through Low Divide, or make a nice loop with the skyline trail. Lots of good loop options in your distance range. Hiking in the Dungeness can also make for some good loops. Lost valley is a great place with many ways to get in and out and not so many people as well.

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